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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Getting a blouse or Tshirt hem even (by yourself) ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Getting a blouse or Tshirt hem even (by yourself)
What tips do you have?
lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/15/12 4:20 PM

I spend more time trying to get a hem even than I do actually sewing the garment. I have to make a round back and sway back alterations as well as an FBA. I also add to the sides for the hip. If I use the hem line from the pattern, I end up with a wonky hem after all these adjustments. I start with a hem marker, but that doesn't work very well for me especially if the hem has some kind of flare or shape to it. Has anyone tried a laser level or chalk line? How do you do it?
-- Edited on 5/15/12 4:22 PM --

JeanK

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Date: 5/15/12 7:15 PM

I remember reading an article years ago about using chalk. My memory of details is sketchy, but the gist was to tack a string to each side of a door jamb at your desired finished length and apply powdered chalk (or vice versa?) then turning slowly touching the blouse (or skirt) to the chalk line to transfer the chalk to the garment.

Personally, I will stand in front of a mirror with a top on and adjust the front, sides and back until I like the look. Then I measure from the floor to my desired finished length at front, back and sides. For me, this works particularly well for shirt-tail shirts that I always wear out, not tucked in. I also have to do the adjustments that you do, so I'm sure to check the measurements on the front and back and will alter them as needed. Usually that means that I have to drop the front a bit or raise the back, whichever view I decide that I like best.

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 5/15/12 7:44 PM

One thing I have found out through trial and error is that I need to add to the hem what I take out for the sway back alteration. I add the full amount to the center back hem and taper to the side seams.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

creative1
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Date: 5/16/12 2:04 AM

I feel your pain. Besides the alterations you do, mine also include alterations for a asymmetry, as one side of the garments is always shorter than the other. Thank you for the wonderful idea to use a laser level as a guide. I am going to hit the hardware store on the weekend to start the search.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/16/12 1:09 PM

All great ideas! Speech girl - I was wondering if I should be changing the pattern hem, but it wasn't making sense to me to take out and add back in. I will try this.

Jean K, Creative1 - I think the problem I would have with this is how the garment drapes, especially on a fuller hem. It sort of hangs in "pleats" or flares. (Hopes this makes sense). Do you think you would "flatten" the hem by spreading the fabric and taking out the "pleats/flare" before chalking or lasering? Or would, that distort the hem?

Has anyone tried this? Oh I have also tried measuring for the floor. This gets me a good starting point, but you have to keep the measuring stick and even distance away from the hem all the way around - hard to do.

-- Edited on 5/16/12 1:16 PM --

NhiHuynh
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Date: 5/16/12 1:23 PM

My very scientific way is to use painters blue tape and eyeball the shirt hem. I stand in front of a mirror, hold a 12"-ish piece of tape horizontally and tape it to the front. I tape it so the top of the tape is the bottom of the hem line. Then a piece for each side. Again using the mirror to eyeball. Lastly a 12"-ish length for the back. If all went as planned the tape pieces should match up and look level. If not, I peel off the piece that isn't leveled and reposition. I chalk a smoother line at the top of the tape. Measure down from the chalk for the hem allowance and trim off the excess. If you want to double check, you can probably pin up the hem and try it on before cutting. Not all fabrics should have tape on it, just a watch out.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

JeanK

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In reply to lca <<


Date: 5/16/12 5:29 PM

I would mark each outer pleat and make the same adjustment to the inner pleat, tapering if need be if the next outer pleat is not marked at the same level. Same with folds in a flair, I'd mark the outer fold & repeat as above.

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