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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > Quickly! I need pattern help! ( Moderated by JEF)

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Quickly! I need pattern help!
Need a TNT plus size shirt pattern
MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1540
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Date: 5/18/12 8:36 AM

This sounds demanding but I bet someone out there has stellar advice.

My adult daughter just started her first professional internship. The dress code is business casual. She desperately needs tops and can rarely find RTW that fits properly. She is large busted (about a G cup, or more) and carries alot of weight around her middle. I would really like to find a pattern that doesn't require TONS of change to make it fit so I can whip out a few nice shirts for her. I haven't shopped with her in a long time but she wears XXL in T-shirts so probably size 20 (+) in US women's sizes.

I'm planning a fast trip to Joann's or Hancocks on my lunch break today and would love to pick up a pattern and get started on this project over the weekend.

I know I will have to do my first large bust adjustment, EGADS!

Oh, and it's her birthday today, she's 23.
-- Edited on 5/18/12 8:42 AM --

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 11/10/06
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Date: 5/18/12 8:47 AM

I am not recommending a particular pattern but if you can find something with a shoulder princess seam it will make a full bust adjustment as smooth as possible. The shoulder princess has a less dramatic angle than an armhole princess so it's easier to change it for a large bust.

If you use a non-princess pattern and do a standard FBA to add or increase a dart then you'll usually find it adds extra room around the stomach too, which is a nice bonus for those of us who carry all our weight in the front. Sounds like your daughter is one of those.

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Michigan USA
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Date: 5/18/12 9:29 AM

I highly recommend Burda 7670. I had great luck with this one and the fabric dresses it up or down. Princess seams are very flattering

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
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Date: 5/18/12 9:41 AM

Thank you, thank you Lareine and Kathy! This is such helpful information. So glad you both had similar advice so I can take it and run. I'm going to pick up the Burda pattern with the shoulder princess seam. I hope they have it at Joann's.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/29/06
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 5/18/12 4:08 PM

MNBarb, Please see the topic/thread on this board regarding cotton voile/lawn. I wear the same size as your daughter, G cup, etc. So many wonderful people gave me excellent pattern suggestions in that thread.

crazygrad
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crazygrad  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/18/12 4:30 PM

The Colette Sencha gets good comments from several plus reviewers, including some busty gals.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
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In reply to Annieq <<


Date: 5/18/12 4:43 PM

Quote: Annieq
MNBarb, Please see the topic/thread on this board regarding cotton voile/lawn. I wear the same size as your daughter, G cup, etc. So many wonderful people gave me excellent pattern suggestions in that thread.

Here's that thread (I've been following it; it's great!): http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/69141

A knit pattern that I've seen recommended a lot (in this forum) is Hot Patterns' Sunshine. (Just in case your DD is more comfortable in knits!)

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~Gem in the prairie

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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In reply to crazygrad <<


Date: 5/18/12 6:13 PM

Quote: crazygrad
The Colette Sencha gets good comments from several plus reviewers, including some busty gals.

I can verify that the Sencha runs large through the bust, and you can decrease the depth of the darts at the waist if you need a little extra room there.

I haven't needed an FBA on most HotPatterns knit tops (and I am extremely busty). The HP Sunshine top is one of my all-time favorite patterns and is very flattering on a plus-sized/busty figure. (I can actually still wear my longer ones, and I'm 7 1/2 months pregnant.) Just make sure to use a drapey knit with that one to avoid the pregnant look. (Granted, I *now* finally look pregnant in mine, but at 7 1/2 months, I darn well should look pregnant.)

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--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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In reply to MNBarb <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/18/12 6:38 PM

Great news!

Get a hold of her absolutely best fitting woven shirt and measure everything possible, seam to seam. If she lives close enough, ask her to also try it on and show you what she would change about it; shorter sleeve, roomier upper arm, more room across back of shoulders, specific information on any extra space needed below the bust.

If she doesn't live nearby, ask her to send notes on changes with the top.

The ease for her garments will be different than for yours. And, rtw sizing for an 18 - 20, or a 1X, varies widely. If you work off of her best fitting garment, you'll at least have a roadmap to work with.

If she just doesn't have anything that fits well in this category, time to visit a really nice department store. Our local large Dillard's has virtually nothing worth buying in that size range. Dillard's Galleria in town (Houston) carries several nice designer lines with good fit, fabric quality and construction. Our Macy's has declined in that department. Sak's in town has good options. It will be pricy, but it will only take one great fitting top for you to be able to clone off and vary a wardrobe full of professional tops.

Princess seams are wonderful. Unstructured jackets with very modest camisoles can be a cool and comfortable 'unstuffy' option.

If you'll post her height and any observations on style I can flip through my patterns for ideas.

I can also share with you. I think everyone knows I'll be a MOG this August. As long as I can get the patterns back by July 1 to start a sewing marathon, I'll share anything I have.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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USA
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 5/18/12 7:11 PM

Barb, I'm big busted and bellied (and short), with about the same cup size as your daughter.

I liked KS2900 (but needed to make a 3" FBA) and add a couple inches to the sides seams. I like this pattern since it's a straight sided, relaxed fit and gives me the belly room I need w/o adding 10 in. to the hips. It was Sherril Miller's TNT and even though I'm larger busted than Sherril, it worked well for me (after I finally learned that FBA).

Recently I have been experimenting with Connie Crawfords B5215 using the XL for the neck & shoulders, then adding inches to the middle side seams. Using version *C*, I didn't need to do an FBA. I purchased the xxl-6x and I'm trying to modify something between the 2 sizings. In the xxl, the hips are too large for me,(my waist and hips are the same) and the neck and shoulders are shaped differently between patterns. I can explain the alterations more (or even post some pic's) if you'd like. I don't know what size your daughter is through the neck and shoulders - I'm like a medium - but then balloon out from there, getting smaller again at the low hip/butt. If you're daughter is an apple with small lower hips, you'll need to trim a lot from the bottom of Connie C's pattern. I want to make one more top from this pattern and then do a review.

It's taken me 2 yrs. to get 2 casual top patterns (that fit) that I can finally wear out of the house! Both patterns are for knits.
...and Happy B-day to your daughter. :)
-- Edited on 5/18/12 7:15 PM --

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