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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA in Wiksten Tova Top

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FBA in Wiksten Tova Top
wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/18/12 3:31 PM

I recently found the Wiksten Tova top, which is very similar to a style I have been trying to find for ages.
Wiksten Tova

Now obviously, the designer has intended this for a svelte tall model like apparition with nominal bust, all of which is not me , but undeterred I would like to at least see if I can get this to work for my curvier self.

I generally do a FBA in most of my sewing, but am a bit stuck on how I might do it in this. I don't think added darts would look right, and the front inset has me a bit ...?

I have looked at other reviews of this pattern, but as far as I can tell, no-one else has done a FBA.

-- Edited on 5/18/12 8:38 PM --

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Sharon Rose
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Date: 5/19/12 11:37 AM

Looking at the style of the top, it appears that the gathered area hits just below the bust line, which means the FBA needs to be made in the bodice portion at the top. You need to treat that the same way you would when you add a dart coming from the waist...which means you will need to add a dart to the seam under the breast. A dart in this area would not detract from the style, but would definitely give you more fullness in the bustline. Approach as though it were a blouse that has had the lower portion cut off. Hope this makes sense.

wenznz
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In reply to Sharon Rose <<


Date: 5/21/12 5:25 AM

Thanks for your reply. After mulling it over, and referring to FFRP to try to visualize it, I think I know what you mean

I've not added waist darts before, so if I am creating them do I essentially tip the usual FBA drawings sideways so the added dart comes from the bottom instead of the side seam, and the usual added width is now added length?

And just so I'm sure I'm on the same page, you are referring to doing this to the yoke pieces, and not the main front piece?

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Gordy
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Date: 5/21/12 12:39 PM

Hi Wendy,

I am the designer of the pattern. The corners of the inset are meant to fall right on the bust apex. I would recommend using the inset line running from the shoulder to the corner for adding a dart. The pattern was originally designed to have the dart hidden there, but I later changed the pattern to be dartless.

: ) Jenny

wenznz
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In reply to Gordy <<


Date: 5/21/12 4:48 PM

Jenny, thank you!

That sounds infinitely more do-able, and also handy to know for fitting purposes where the intended bust point is.

Off to adjust and try it out now ...!

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Gordy
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Date: 5/22/12 12:48 PM

No problem! Good luck! Hope you'll end up with something you like. : )

meleliza
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Date: 1/11/13 11:55 AM

Considering Gordy's reply, i suspect the best thing would be to add a dart as you would for a dart less front and then rotate the dart to the bib placket and convert it to more gathers. I would try this in a muslin carefully first, as this styles of top often does not flatter a full bust. If it doesn't work, I would try simply adding a regular bust dart to create a flattering shape around the bust.

Agreed that it is a very nice blouse on the waif like.

------
Melanie

michellep74
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 1/11/13 1:45 PM

Quote: meleliza
Considering Gordy's reply, i suspect the best thing would be to add a dart as you would for a dart less front and then rotate the dart to the bib placket and convert it to more gathers. I would try this in a muslin carefully first, as this styles of top often does not flatter a full bust. If it doesn't work, I would try simply adding a regular bust dart to create a flattering shape around the bust.



Agreed that it is a very nice blouse on the waif like.

I speak from personal experience that you'll want to watch where the gathers open up on this style of top if you're full-busted. I echo the "make a muslin" sentiment here.

I recently muslined a top with a similar style (although the one I tried had pintucks instead of a bib that opened up), and the tucks released right at the apex of my bust...not a good look on me: very tentlike/maternity top-esque. Granted, you're probably not as ginormously busted as I am, so it may work for you.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

wenznz
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Date: 1/11/13 2:52 PM

Michelle and Meleliza, thanks for your thoughts. I was a little surprised to see my thread resurrected.

I ended up following the suggestion Jenny made to do a regular FBA and rotate it up into the seam that runs from the bust point up to the shoulder. This worked really well and didn't result in lots of extra fabric. My review is here if you are interested in taking a look.

I would think, having done this now, that if a larger FBA was required than could be accommodated by rotating into that seam, you might be better to distribute some of the extra as gathers into the shoulder seam.

Edited to add: Forgot to mention as an aside that I also put two fisheye darts in the back, as I found it a bit billowy. I just recently found another reviewer of this pattern who found the same thing.
It might be worthwhile to consider this if you are an hourglass or pear to give the back view a slightly more flattering fit. I believe Meleliza also posted a comment on my review about adding a CB seam to achieve the same effect.
-- Edited on 1/12/13 3:22 AM --

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

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