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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Convert jersey knit pattern to a light wt ponte

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Convert jersey knit pattern to a light wt ponte
Amt of ease to add?
Weif
Weif  Friend of PR
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CANADA
Member since 5/8/10
Posts: 29
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Date: 5/19/12 9:18 PM

Hello,

I have a wrap top and cowl neck top fitted for rayon jersey. I was wondering how much ease I would have to add to use a light wt ponte since it has less stretch but still quite a bit since it's light wt? I used a size 12 for the jersey tops and was thinking that I could cut a size 14 instead for the ponte but I'm not sure if the extra 2" ease on the body is enough? Or would I have better luck if I use a woven cowl or wrap top and just size it a bit smaller?

Weif

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Weif <<


Date: 5/19/12 10:00 PM

Ponte isn't really interchangeable with rayon jersey. The fabric doesn't have the drape of jersey and it's too bulky for the types of garment you mention. Ponte is more a bottom weight fabric.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 5/19/12 10:49 PM

Ihave actually made a wrap top out of rayon ponte.

I have done the sort of conversions that you are plannign to make using a less stretchy fabric , or conversely a more stretchy fabric than the garment i'm starting from as a model.
i suppose that you would like me to give you a formula of how to exactly figure this outr...what i do is lay the model/pattern garment down on a fold of the new fabric...in this case..the less stretchy ponte.I then would cut the ponte bigger by a bit going east/west by moving the model shirt a bit away fro the fold of the fabric. If I have made an error and cut the shirt too small,then I would add an additional strip of fabric from armpit hem to make up for my error. if i have over estuimated then i will sew the side seams a bit smaller.

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sarah in nyc
www.sewnewyork.blogspot.com

Weif
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Date: 5/20/12 12:39 PM

Thanks for the advise. This switch sounds a bit tricky and the fabric maybe wouldn't be suitable -- I guess I'll have to use the ponte for a different garment.

Weif

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 5/20/12 2:04 PM

I just wanted to add that going from a 12 to a 14 in any garment--let alone one that's already stretchy--is going to add tons more ease than you're expecting, instead of the "just a little" ease that you want. (I tried it once with a TNT corset pattern I wanted to convert for outerwear--that's a garment with ZERO ease, and bumping from a 12-14 didn't make it "roomier"--it made it hang on me like a sack.)

I think your lightweight ponte should work fine for a wrap top--after all, it's a common enough fabric for wrap *dresses.* I'd take Sarah's advice for how to walk the extra ease. Also, compare the two fabrics for stretchiness. Take the stretch gauge from the pattern envelope and see how much less the ponte stretches, and try adding that much extra for ease (half for each seam, since you don't want to accidentally add twice as much as you planned).

Good luck!!

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~Gem in the prairie

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