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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Changing bell sleeves to slit bell sleeves?

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Changing bell sleeves to slit bell sleeves?
on lined jacket
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
KS USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3071
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Date: 5/20/12 12:15 PM

I'm working on a recreation of this velvet bolero jacket (from the movie "Van Helsing"):


I'm using
Simplicity 1819 (I couldn't find an image small enough to post here).

Modifying the front hemline to be square instead of rounded off won't be a problem. But I'm not sure how to manage turning the simple bell sleeves into the inspiration jacket's open/slit bell sleeves. Is it really just as simple as leaving the seams open up to the elbow and slipstitching the lining in place along the slit? Or would it be easier to line the sleeves from the wrist up, sort of the Nancy Zieman way, instead of bagging the lining?

Am I making this more complicated than it actually is?

Thanks!!


(Edited to hopefully fix photo!)
-- Edited on 5/20/12 2:07 PM --

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~Gem in the prairie

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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VA USA
Member since 7/27/05
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Date: 5/21/12 11:07 AM

I think it's as easy as just not sewing that seam :)

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

gowngirl
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OR USA
Member since 3/11/08
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 5/21/12 12:24 PM

Myself, I think that slit is slightly forward of the usual underarm seam. I would guess that the underarm seam was moved to the front, about where the front notch is. You could create a second seam though. Test the theory with muslin.
This is what I'd do: Once I'd created the hem shape I like, I'd cut a lining of the same pattern, sew the underarm of both before sewing them together at the hem. I'd understitch that seam, and Voila~! I'd have my sleeve! There are other ways to do it that would involve a turned up hem, or facings, but the end result would be bulky and/or hard to ease in because of the curve.

I don't know the nancy zeiman way, but for this type of sleeve, I'd want the armscye to be tacked down so that the lining doesn't drag or accidentally hang down.

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Whatever I say, you keep on sewing!

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