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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Altering swimsuit pattern ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Altering swimsuit pattern
Scrunch butt
Nonette
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Nonette
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Date: 5/21/12 0:54 AM

I am trying to make a swim bottom with the scrunch butt. How do I alter a plain swim bottom pattern? i tried adding hieght to the top of the back piece so I do not lose the length for coverage when I scrunch it but not really working. I think I need to change something on the leg opening but can't seem to figure ut what to do. Please help!!

Thank you so so much.
nonette

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In reply to Nonette <<
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Date: 5/21/12 2:24 AM

Not quite sure what a scrunch butt is, but if it's a place that is kind of runched or gathered up the center of top part of the swim suit back waist there, and elastisized, this is what I would try first.

First, I would want the back of the swim bottom paper pattern to have a seam up the center back. So I would put one there. Then I would take the one side of that swim suit back paper pattern (half of the finished two part back) and slash it several times horizontal and spread those slashes out wider on the paper in the places I wanted it to runch up and gather at the back seam. How deep the slashes might be, on the paepr pattern, just would sort of depend on the size of the swim suit butt there I guess. Now with those slashes spread out more there, I would cut a new paper pattern incorporating that. Then use that I think.

Now when you sew the two 1/2 of the butt, back pieces together, on the center back seam, it will look a bit odd and stick out there. But when you later put elastic in the back side of the seam right there, I think it will pull it down and make the hip/back waistline even there, and you got your elasticated runching and gathers there.

Try it on some waste scraps first though, as a test, to see if you like that or not, not your one and only really fabric. I have not actually done that before, but that is how I would go about doing it, if I wanted to. If you liked it though like that, then I think you might be good to go.

If you just want some elastic up the back, and no center back seam there, and no extra fabric for the gathers/runching, I have seen that way befor too, but then it does pull down the center back to get that effect. So that is why I think you need to add some more fabric the above way (slash and spread on the pattern) instead, not to have pull down kind of effect happen.

I think it has to be elastisized though, or it would not work good and also be uncomfortable to wear.

SheBear0320
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In reply to Nonette <<


Date: 5/21/12 10:17 AM

Are you looking for the "scrunch butt" that is common on competitive bikini suits -- where the centre back is "scrunched" pretty much from the waist to the crotch seam?

scrunch butt -- this is just on a butt form so the fit is not quite the same as it is on the athlete but it gives you an idea.

If so you do need to take out some of the shape/length on the leg opening.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

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