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Gaping Armhole
How to fix a gaping armhole in a vest without a bust dart
Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/21/12 1:02 AM

I am making View A on Butterick B5359 and I am having a problem with a gaping armhole. I usually do a 3/4 inch FBA on my patterns but this vest has no bust dart. So I traced the shoulders and neck one size smaller than the sides and adjusted the pattern with the Gale G. Hazen, Fantastic Fit for Everybody book method. Made another muslin.

The armhole still gapes.

I could go ahead an create an armscye dart or I could rotate the dart to the shoulder.The Sandra Betzina method of easing in the fabric won't work on this pattern for me because I am making it out of linen and the dart is too large. I guess with no bust dart, there isn't another way to fix this, right?
-- Edited on 5/21/12 1:06 AM --

AdaH
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Date: 5/21/12 1:21 AM

I often have the same problem. You could add a dart? Vest really do fit better with a dart.
If you are set on no dart then on your muslin pinch out a dart starting at the armhole then go to nothing at center front. Then transfer this to your pattern front.
-- Edited on 5/21/12 1:23 AM --

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Ada

Annieq

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In reply to AdaH <<
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Date: 5/21/12 1:39 AM

AdaH, I could add a dart. I guess an armscye dart would be less noticable than a shoulder seam dart.

Annieq

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In reply to AdaH <<


Date: 5/21/12 1:41 AM

Hmm. I'm curious though about the method you described. I don't quite understand.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Annieq <<
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Date: 5/21/12 7:39 AM

Quote:
I guess with no bust dart, there isn't another way to fix this, right? --
Truly, there are "darts" in this, but they are in the form of fullness rather than an actual stitching line.

I have to do this with some patterns as well (I have very rolled shoulders which create a "valley" near my bustline). Rotate the fullness of the dart to the hemline, then remove this amount at the sideseam, keeping the same shape. On the side seam, parallel to the tip of the dart is where you start to remove the fullness and taper that down to the hem.

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JTink
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Date: 5/21/12 9:18 AM

Miss Fairchild had the same idea I did I think Debbie Cook has an illustration of this method. I just don't know how to get to it.

I add a dart if it's a woven. The fit seems a little better and a dart in a woven is not the "neon sign" it would be in a knit(although I've used them in knits as well, with no problem).

Annieq

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 5/21/12 9:57 AM

Well this is the Fabulous Fit for Everybody method. I did do that and the gape seemed to remain. Gale Hazen descibes this change as adding a "hookedo" at the underarm.

I must have done it wrong.

Patti B
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In reply to Annieq <<


Date: 5/21/12 10:12 AM

I have the gaposis problem with most vests (or anything else with shoulders!) due to sloping shoulders. Could this be your problem? If so, try angling the shoulder seam towards the armscye and see if that takes care of it.

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Patti

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Annieq

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In reply to Patti B <<


Date: 5/21/12 10:52 AM

I do have sloping shoulder and a shallow chest. I did correct for that by adjusting the shoulder seams and re-drawing the neckline to lie closer to my chest. It creates a narrower V down my center but hangs off my shoulders and on my chest better.

I just tried to do the "hookedo" method again too (thinking I must have done it wrong); the type described by Miss Fairchild.

The same thing happens when I smooth the fabric near the armhole or the shoulder seam; the cut edge of the fabric must swing in at a sharp angle so that the shoulder seam width becomes very narrow or the armhole cut edge swings very low.

I guess with my large bust - US size 40G, I'll have to do a short, wide armhole dart. It probably won't be visible under my arm anyway. I was just sure that by adjusting the flat pattern I could get rid of the dart. I think I saw a Kenneth King article in Threads that gave me that idea.
-- Edited on 5/21/12 10:54 AM --

tourist
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Date: 5/21/12 11:03 AM

I can sometimes fix this by pulling the front shoulder seam up a bit - more on the armscye side and tapering to the neck line. I've saved a few RTW items this way.

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