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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > pattern doesn't call for facing

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pattern doesn't call for facing
but should I add one for lightweight fabric?
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/26/12 7:55 PM

I'm working on M6554 in a lightweight cotton lawn. I'm lining the dress with cotton voile. The pattern calls for a bodice lining, but does not include facings. However, the fabric is so lightweight I wonder if it would benefit from the added support of a facing. What do you think? Note that I have changed the neckline from the squared version to a scoop.

Recently, I made a special occasion dress in fine cotton voile that was both lined and underlined. I included the facing with that dress, using cotton muslin as a sew in interfacing. I really liked the end result there. It felt like a fine quality dress and was very nice to wear.

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Melanie

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to meleliza <<
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Date: 5/26/12 8:19 PM

That's a beautiful dress! Reminds me of one I made a long time ago; nice to see it's coming back. I think the reason for the lining is for modesty--not having your undergarments show as well as to provide some body to the upper portion. Are you thinking of using the facing instead of the lining or along with? You could put a facing between the lining and the main dress, if it doesn't show, but it would have to be tacked down if you did it this way. But if I were making the dress, I wouldn't have just the facing. Why not fuse some tricot to the lining to add weight? Peggy Sagers does this with her linens; on her pants, tops, etc.

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meleliza
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Date: 5/27/12 10:36 AM

Sorry, I meant add the facing to the lining. The lawn is a little sheer and really needs a lining. In fact, I'm adding a full lining, not just the bodice as in the pattern. This is a lining method I like that attaches the facing to the lining then treats it as one unit. It makes a nice clean finish and the facing isn't flapping around, which I always hate.

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Melanie

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/27/12 12:15 PM

I just cut 3 cotton lawn dresses, and I'm using a fine cotton lining that is a bit heavier than the lawn. I have the first one nearly done, I used the lining as facing and under stitched 2 rows .... the added weight of the lining is working out great, I don't need the facings, although I did cut them just in case.

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LynnRowe
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 5/27/12 12:39 PM

I was just getting ready to reply that I would add the facing to the lining by replacing that portion of the lining with the facing and then treating as one...then saw your link to exactly that method.

So my answer is yep. Keep the weight where you want it and not where you don't.

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meleliza
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 5/28/12 10:02 AM

Thanks,Lynn. It's nice to have tht confirmation.And instead of fusible interfacing, I used some nicer quality muslin, which will be more breathable in the heat.

I like the other suggestion about a heavier lining, and I sometimes think that muslin makes a good lining for casual summer things. However, on reflection I think my fashion fabric is more of a voile than lawn. In a class I took recently, Susan Khalje cautioned against using an underling or lining that is the wrong weight because it will change the properties of your fashion fabric. Of course, it all depends on what you want to achieve, doesn't it, but here I think it best to keep the lightness of the fashion fabric.

------
Melanie

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