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Curved Seam Help
RuthOfford
RuthOfford
Member since 3/23/12
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Date: 5/27/12 8:00 AM

Hello!

So I'm used to sewing a seam but I've never had to do a curved one before. I'm currently working on a pattern which involves several curved panels as part of the skirt. I've been working on the seam but I'm really struggling to make it flat before sewing. I've tried tacking but it hasn't really worked.

Can anyone help me on this ? Do I need to be clipping it like when sewing a collar? I've tried this but I've still had problems turning it under.

Any help appreciated!

JEF
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In reply to RuthOfford <<


Date: 5/27/12 9:30 AM

Can you tell us the pattern? It will help to see what kind of curves you're talking about.

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

RuthOfford
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Date: 5/27/12 10:06 AM

Yep sure.

It's this pattern- http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6331-products-13872.php?page_id=528&search_control=display&list=search

I'm making the blue checked dress.

JEF
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In reply to RuthOfford <<


Date: 5/27/12 10:19 AM

Pattern link

Thanks for the pattern. I made it a link to help out.

Back to your question - you said you are having trouble making it lie flat before sewing. Have you measured the seam lengths (not the edge lengths - the seam lengths) to see if they are the same? Should you be easing one seam to the other? Sometimes with a curved seam (like a princess seam), one side will be more ruffly in the seam allowance area.

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

RuthOfford
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Date: 5/27/12 10:26 AM

Hmm I'm not sure what you mean.

Basically when I'm trying to turn it under on the curve it's not having any of it! I end up with more material so a bubble or a crease which is what usually happens with a curve. Normally I cut into it to stop this happening but it doesn't seem to be making any difference here.

meleliza
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Date: 5/27/12 10:49 AM

Is it the hem of the skirt that's curved? Is that what you mean by turning it under? Is it a gentle curve or a scallop?

It can be tricky to ease in the edge of a curved hem. One way is to run a gathering stitch in the hem allowance and pull it up to fit, then hand stitch the hem. If it's very curved or scalloped, you could add a hem facing, which will fit perfectly. That's a very nice finish.

------
Melanie

RuthOfford
RuthOfford
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Date: 5/27/12 11:10 AM

Each piece is curved but I've got eight to do. The pattern just says the same as a normal hem but it's clearly not.

Apologies for the previous posts when I've been saying it's a seam. It's a hem! Sorry!

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 5/27/12 12:05 PM

The best solution would be to make a hem facing. You'd then have to trim the seams and clip each curve with little v's to get them to lie perfectly flat, but it would probably give you the best finish. To make the facing, trace off the bottom of the skirt piece to the depth of the hem, make eight pieces, seam them together into a circular piece, and attach to the hem.

If you don't want to go that route, you need to make the hem as small as possible before the final stitching. One possibility is to stitch along the hem line, turn the hem up along that line (with the stitching just on the inside of the garment), pin, then stitch very close to the folded edge and clip the excess off. Then turn it up again and stitch once more. This encloses the raw edge and gives you a very small hem that should avoid the bubbling.

------
Debbie

LynnRowe
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In reply to RuthOfford <<
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Date: 5/27/12 12:16 PM

You can reduce the depth of the hem; the more hem depth, the more bubbling ( the fabric edge of the seam allowance is longer than the hem edge).

You can press up only 1/4" of the hem edge, then snip ou little pie-shaped wedges from the seam allowance, where the excess fabric bubbles. In couture, you would then use tiny hand stitches to tack the cut wedge edges together.

You can sew lines of gathering stitches above the hem line, every 1/2" or so in the seam allowance, then gather the seam allowance fabric until everything fits. Then shrink the gathering to lie flat and smooth...but this only works with fabrics that can be steam-shrunk, such as wool.

You can make a rolled hem. This has the same effect as making a narrow hem (first comment above). The less seam allowance you have, the less excess fabric in the seam allowance and the less bubbling.

You can trace off the skirt panel pattern's bottom hem and whatever hem depth you want, a "mini pattern piece" to make a hem facing. Cut 8 pieces, sew together as you did the skirt panels, then right sides together, sew the facing to the skirt, press flat as sewn then towards the skirt, then press the facing up. It will perfectly match your skirt panels and you can have as deep a hem as you like.

HTH!

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

LynnRowe
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In reply to RuthOfford <<


Date: 5/27/12 12:32 PM

Now that I looked at the pattern (didn't notice JEF had linked it!), are you using cotton or the like?

If so, what I would do for hemming is make a narrow folded hem.

First sew a line of stitching across each skirt panel 1/4" below where you want the finished hem edge (fold) to be. Turn the fabric up along this sewn line, and press well. Now you have a tiny 1/4" hem, but with raw edges still showing.

Fold this hem up again, by folding at the raw edges, and again press. I turn, fold, press and then pin a section at a time, around 6-8", so the fabric doesn't have time to unfold on me as I work my way around the hemline.

The raw edges are now encased within the folded hem. Top stitch the hem in place, and done.

As this is a fun and casual dress, I think a narrow folded hem would work best with the style, and help give definition to the hem edges, which is a feature of this dress.


-- Edited on 5/27/12 12:34 PM --

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

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