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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pinching out extra in the arm scythe ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pinching out extra in the arm scythe
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Leu
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Leu  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/28/12 9:30 PM

Hello, all. I made S 4076, the sleeveless twist top and it was easy! And it fit! And it was quick, like four days in and out and around kids, daycare, dinner, etc. but, when I narrow hemmed the arms, I got this unfortunate blip of fabric in the front arm scythe / just above the bust area. . It is still wearable but I would like to fix the pattern before I make any more (and there will be more). If I pinch out the excess, like this and then cut or tape that dart out, will it eliminate that blip on my next version?


Thanks. Leu

-- Edited on 5/29/12 10:36 AM --
-- Edited on 5/29/12 10:58 AM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Leu <<


Date: 5/29/12 8:40 AM

Your pictures didn't come through. One question...are you larger than a C cup? If so, without a Full Bust Adjustment, that could be causing the armhole "blip".

CRUST
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Date: 5/29/12 10:55 AM

Yeah, it's a bust fit issue.
For future reference, altering arm holes like this is... problematic, especially if there's sleeves involved. You have to redraft the armscye.

Leu
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 5/29/12 10:56 AM

I am bigger than a c cup and usually have to make a FBA. I was kinda sorta thrilled that this top fit without needing one. But, sounds like you're telling me I actually *did* need one, I just didn't know until this little blip effect.
Rats.

Leu Sews in NYC

dresscode

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Date: 5/29/12 11:12 AM

Before making other alterations I would overlay garment to pattern armscye to make sure that edge didn't stretch when you hemmed.

Next time, you might stabilize if needed.

Leu
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In reply to dresscode <<


Date: 5/29/12 11:16 AM

AH! dresscode. That's an interesting point because this funny blip did not show up before I hemmed the arms. My husband and I joked, "it looked better unfinished."

Leu

LauraTS
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Date: 5/29/12 2:52 PM

First off, your top looks really great and flattering. If the little extra fabric only showed up after you hemmed, maybe you did stretch the fabric out and that's what caused it. Fusible tape or clear elastic could help with that issue depending on the fabric.

Alternatively, maybe you need to shorten the whole pattern in the armscye? You might be more petite through the upper torso than the pattern is drafted for. I have no idea how you'd do that with a twist top, but surely someone has written a post here or a blog entry about it - 4076 has been a really popular pattern here, iirc.

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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 5/29/12 3:10 PM

Great job on the top! And I love the color. As a suggestion, I'd make this out of muslin fabric just to be sure the armscye is correct and not needing a tuck. As to fixing this, you can tug a little at the shoulder seam, on the outside edge until the blip goes away; just pull it up in front; not the back. There isn't much there, so you might be able to get away with it. If you were attaching sleeves, I wouldn't recommend this, but I'd recommend rotating the fullness in the armscye to the hem and remove that amount at the side seam. Look at examples for rotating darts to give you an idea.

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LynnRowe
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In reply to Leu <<


Date: 5/29/12 5:50 PM

By "hem", did you just turn and stitch the armholes? That's almost guaranteed to make them stretch out.

Bind the armholes instead, and you can bind over top of your current hemming. As you sew the binding to the armholes, you stretch the binding. Then after it's sewn, the binding relaxes, which pulls the armhole close to the body.

Come on by this evening and we'll get you fixed right up.


LOVE that fabric color!

Ok...you're in NY. A bit too far to pop by after dinner, so here's what I would do:

knit bindings how-to

Sarah demos how to do a neckline binding, but it's exactly the same thing for armholes. Don't try taking your hemming stitching out, you'll distort the fabric further, but you certainly could add a knit binding over top of your hemming, and it would fix the gapping.

I think the pattern's fine as is for you...I think you just need to do armhole bindings in future tops, rather then turn-and-stitch hemming.
-- Edited on 5/29/12 5:58 PM --

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diane s
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Date: 5/31/12 12:39 PM

I was also going to suggest binding the armholes. I prefer to do it with narrow elastic,the same as swimwear or a leotard.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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