Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > Serging silk ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Serging silk
Questions about finishing seams & rolled hem
RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/30/12 4:01 AM

So I have this silk (charmeuse I think : very drapey, tighly woven, not sheer, not very ravelly) that I cut out for a dress.

I'd like to serge the SA before sewing, and hem it with a rolled hem. I did a few test runs but I have issues with both :

1. Serging SA with a 2-thread overlock :

1.A - The fabric doesn't feed very well and slips to the left after being cut by the knife.

1.B - The threads are loopy or break, depending on the tension. Ex :
Needle 0 / Looper 6 (the tensions recommended on the manual) : break
Needle 2 / Looper 4 : both loopy

2. 2-thread rolled hems :

2.A The needle snags and makes holes in the fabric. I use the recommanded serger needle ELx705 size 80. My serger accepts universal needles, but the dealer said to only use size 80 and 90, so I'm weary to use size 70 or 60, or Microtex.

2.B The hem is very stiff and hinders the lovely drape of the silk.

Do you have any solutions for these issues ? The user's manual is not very helpful re: settings, it only says to play with tension/presser foot according to fabric (yeah, thanks).

Subsidiary question : could I use a rolled hem for the neckline and armholes instead of self-fabric bias binding ?

BTW, my serger is an Elna 654.

Thanks !

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 557
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/31/12 4:19 AM

I would use french seams instead of overlocking, the fabric is too fine and it works best with french seams. Rolled hem on neckline would look a bit cheap in my opinion, but it depends on the design too

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

nicegirl
starstarstarstar
nicegirl
Intermediate
DC USA
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1717
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/31/12 8:44 AM

With my old serger, I found that I *had* to lift the knife for serging silk, otherwise the stitch did not catch onto the actual fabric. That might help with the first issue. As to the second, a serger rolled hem has a lot of thread and is always going to be a little stiff, so I'm not sure there's a solution.

I've done a rolled hem finish at the neckline and armscyes on a silk top and it looks totally fine. A bit casual, but that matches the style.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/31/12 11:52 AM

Thank you !

@Lena Merrin : I'm not looking forward to make and use silk bias tape, but you're right about rolled hems. And I'll also to the French seams route (there are only a few seams on this pattern and they're all mostly straight). I was just curious to see whether it could work. I have seen RTW silk dresses with serged sa.

@nicegirl : when you say that you lift the knife, you mean that it's not in use ? As for rolled hems, I can see how it would work with ruffles but not for regular hems, too stiff.

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4524
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/31/12 12:56 PM

I have an Elna 644 and have had good luck with charmuese, I hemmed some scarves made of 12mm. Are you using the 2 thread adaptor? The settings my serger suggests are different.
Needle 2 is 3 and the looper is 2.5
differetial feed is 1 and stitch length is 1 (I prefer 2)
If you are serging the seam allowance, I would think a 2 thread overcast would be better.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

beauturbo
beauturbo
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 5/2/09
Posts: 2807
Login to reply to this post

In reply to RoseFromThule <<


Date: 5/31/12 3:57 PM

A nice thin supple easy to bend, slippery and shiny Rayon fiber, 2 ply and 40 weight or thinner more decorative made special for machine embroidery thread, kind of thread used for the rolled hemming, and and not regular garment construction thread or even spun poly serger thread) might be less stiff and more supple and bendable, and then not so many stitches so close together and at longer stitch length, might make for a more supple and bendable rolled hem. You could try that, on some scraps, and see how you like that and how it would look. I would not garment seam construct something with it, but it's for sure strong enough, for a rolled hem on thin and slippery silk. Once hem is in, not a whole lot of garment stress on it at all.

Also you don't have to only use a 2 thread rolled hem ( or even a two thread overlock) for any reason at all, you could use a 3 thread rolled hem instead, and.or a 3 thread overlock instead and just see which you like best. Have you tried that yet?

I think if you already are having trouble (left hand wise fabric manipulation) keeping that edge of the very soft and bendable silk pushed up against the knife, long enough for stitches to form over it, on straight and slightly curved areas, it would be even more so though, on a even more tightly curved armhole seam. Unless you decided to do something else, and stiffen or control your fabric more there.

purplebouquet
star
purplebouquet
Advanced
AR USA
Member since 11/16/05
Posts: 1168
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/1/12 2:37 PM

Is your fabric washable? If yes, you might try water-soluble stabilizer. It prevents pokies, uneven thread coverage and slippage issue. But to remove it, you'll have to submerge the fabric in water. That might not work.
An alternative to a rolled hem could be a narrow 3-thread. Check your manual and do a test run. It is less stiff than a rolled hem and great for fabrics that don't roll easily, usually stiffer and thicker fabrics.
Also, I saw a couture finish for hems on sheer fabrics on a Sewing with Nancy episode you might want to check out. A bit involved, but very classy looking.
I have not had good luck doing a rolled hem on a neckline or armscye because I ended up stretching the fabric and it looked wobbly. Nicegirl, what do you do to prevent that?
Claudia

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/4/12 4:02 AM

OK, so I finished the dress this week-end, and didn't use the serger at all ... French seams, bias finishes on armholes and necklines and narrow hem (the two-pass by SM version, not the 3-thread serger version) at the bottom.
It doesn't look bad and the self-fabric bias was relatively easy to handle, even though not perfect !

Thank you all !
-- Edited on 6/4/12 4:03 AM --

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers >> Serging silk

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

No Pattern Used Yoga skirt Yoga skirt
photo
Review by ChrisS on 12/31/12
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Hang Time Basketball Shorts Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -12 years )
Peek-A Boo Hang Time Basketball Shorts Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -12 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Versity Cowl Neck Pullover Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )
Peek-A Boo Versity Cowl Neck Pullover Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 2564
photo
Review by lsaspacey on 1/4/11
Read Review

Petite Plus 204 Pattern
Petite Plus 204 Pattern

Details
Price: $21.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern
You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern

Details
Price: $22.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 9007 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 9007 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $22.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 6794 Pattern ( Size LRG-XLG-XXL )
McCalls 6794 Pattern ( Size LRG-XLG-XXL )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN