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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Please help with an FBA issue

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Please help with an FBA issue
Hamilton24
Hamilton24  Friend of PR
Intermediate
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Date: 5/30/12 4:18 AM

Dear fellow sewists, I'm sewing Vogue 1068 and I need to do a serious FBA. I have done them successfully on other patterns and have taken Sarah's very good course but this one stumps me. Unfortunately for me, none of the reviews of this pattern include FBAs. I thought of converting the front it into an armscyce princess line but I do like this style. Your help in this is greatly appreciated.

Hamilton24
Hamilton24  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/30/12 6:50 AM

Forgot to insert the drawing...
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/add_img/V1068.gif

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Hamilton24 <<


Date: 5/30/12 9:22 AM

It's hard for me to tell by the line drawing, is this a princess seam or a large french dart? If it's a princess seam, I would treat it as such. Maybe the neck line is what is throwing you off. Do you have Fit For Real People? It might help you tackle this sort of thing

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 5/30/12 9:52 AM

Are you sewing the dress or the jacket?

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marjoriekh

Hamilton24
Hamilton24  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/31/12 3:42 AM

Marjoriekh, I'm doing the jacket and JTink, its an interesting question whether its an armsyce princess line or a waist dart, or a combination of both...The back of the jacket doesn't pose a problem at all and that is understandable as the degree of curvature around the shoulderblades is nowhere near as pronounced as around the bust point. The lower front right and left pieces are cut in such a way that they are the ones that provide the depth and size of the bust shaping - a convex fitting into a concave. According to the pattern, the seam from the hem to the bust point is just to the left of the bust point (no matter what size of pattern is chosen). I've tried to widen the lower right and left front pieces but then I get a gathered effect over the bust and it makes my bust look even more enormous than it is!! Maybe I need to do a dart to take in the gathered fabric? but to the side of the breast point? No, I don't think that will do will it? This problem literally kept me awake last night, but I'm determined to solve it and would love any suggestions and help

Hamilton24
Hamilton24  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/31/12 3:47 AM

BTW, thanks Marjoriekh for correctly insering the pattern line drawings and JTink, I have got that great book and a few others that I 've been trawling through but I'm still learning pattern drafting (geometry really isn't it?!) and can't seem to find/identify any hints in those books that I can apply to this issue.

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/31/12 8:30 AM

This is an unusual design element, and I can see that you wouldn't want to change the look.

Could you extend the front seams to the shoulder as in a shoulder princess line, make your FBA to the princess seam a la Sarah Veblen, and then rotate any shaping you end up with above the horizontal seam down into that horizontal seam for the final garment, so that you end up with the same design lines in the end?

(It seems to me that the horizontal seam is just the rest of the princess line rotated to the side and toward the center, rather than toward the armscye as in an armhole princess. But I'm no expert!)

------
marjoriekh

Nancywin
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Date: 5/31/12 9:55 AM

The FBA on this should be very similar to the one you use with a princess seam. Cut the pattern (or trace) as if you were making it into princess seams. Do the FBA. Then, put the pattern pieces together again with the adjustments and you should have your new adjustment. I'm not sure of what Sara's FBA is, but this would work with either of the methods I use. (I usually use Sandra Betzina's method for FBA on princess seams and Nancy Zeiman's method for regular...)

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blog: encue.blogspot.com

Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight (Proverbs 3:5-6)

Hamilton24
Hamilton24  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/12 5:58 AM

I think you are both right, this should be treated as a princess line and Marjoriekh, it was that horizontal line that stumped me. It makes sense to me now when you say that the horizontal seam is just the rest of the princess line rotated to the centre. That's what I couldn't get my head around before. I'll have a look at both Sandra's and Nancy's methods, thanks for your recommendation Nancywin. I'll play with this more this weekend. Thank you both very muchI'll let you know how I go.

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/1/12 12:23 PM

Let us know if you get any gaping at the armhole after your FBA. Seems like you ought to be able to rotate that into those center seams also, if nec.

------
marjoriekh

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