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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drafting self-binding

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Drafting self-binding
CRUST
CRUST
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Member since 3/21/12
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Date: 5/30/12 11:59 PM

So, here's the story: I'm going to be sewing a modal blend jersey top, then gradient dying it, which means that color matching any topstitching will be impossible, and since it's an unusual fabric, finding a similar rib knit that'll necessarily dye to the same shade just isn't going to happen. So I was just going to cut some strips of self fabric and overlock it in as one would do with rib fabric. Before I waste any time with prototyping I was curious if anyone had any insight into how this would stretch. Should I go 1:1 since it'll have the same stretch as the the rest of the garment? Or should I stretch it to fit as I would with rib knit binding?

I'm almost thinking about leaving the arms, neck, and hem raw just to avoid this issue altogether. I won't accept contrast stitching or improper color matching on the bindings.

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to CRUST <<


Date: 5/31/12 0:52 AM

This terrific video by Sarah Veblen is what you need. No guesswork is involved; you will sort of hand-walk your custom-dyed self binding along your actual neckline to get the very best fit. The same technique can be used around the armholes, if it's a tank top.


-- Edited on 5/31/12 0:53 AM --

LynnRowe
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LynnRowe  Friend of PR
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In reply to CRUST <<


Date: 5/31/12 5:05 PM

Stretch the binding as you serge it. Otherwise, you're goi g to have the droopsies.

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And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

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CRUST
CRUST
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Date: 5/31/12 10:00 PM

well, yeah, i know how to apply the binding. i've never drafted my own before.

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/31/12 10:35 PM

Self-binding isn't all that different from rib-knit. You definitely want the binding shorter than the opening. There's some guesswork involved, since how much shorter depends partly on how stretchy your binding fabric is, partly on how wide your finished binding will be; but that's no different from using ribbing.

I believe the beginning of the video above goes into how to prepare your self-binding. I learned how from this video, and it always works for me.

If you apply a double-fold binding, turn it, and press it similarly to the way she does in the video (without topstitching), there should be no visible thread. You could also try invisibly hand-hemming the sleeves and bottom hem, if your fabric isn't too thin.

It's possible I've misunderstood your question, and if so, I apologize.

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marjoriekh

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