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To interface or not to interface,
that is the question....
LDT2011
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LDT2011
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Date: 5/31/12 7:21 AM

To interface or not to interface that is the question....
I find modern patterns seem to want to interface everything and the vintage ones I have don't. When I do interface things like facings I find them too stiff for my liking.
I'm planning on making a shirtdress and it seems to want you to interface quite a bit.
So do I follow the instructions and interface or not?

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'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

eclair
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 5/31/12 7:44 AM

I find the interfacing really helps with getting things to lie flat or to keep their shape where necessary. And remember that not all interfacing has to be stiff. I've been using different interfacings of varying stiffness for collars, plackets, cuffs etcetera. It's also worth attaching a sample of the interfacing to a piece of your fabric and tossing it in the washing machine (assuming that's how you'll be cleaning your dress) as they are very often much less stiff once they've been through the laundry once or twice.

Use a lightweight interfacing for starters. It would probably do the job nicely for a shirtdress unless it has a particularly stiff or fancy collar.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to LDT2011 <<
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Date: 5/31/12 8:48 AM

Why not use what you call "calico" to interface? It's drapey, not stiff and will help hold the shape of the garment.

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marec
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 5/31/12 11:45 AM

You could start with a lightweight interfacing, and double it if you need more stiffness. For your shirtdress, you'll need interfacing behind the buttonholes and the placket. The dress will look better with a crisper interfacing along the placket. Try some samples of fusible and sew in...oh, and I have started using sew in on facings as I think it looks better there than fusible. Good discussion!

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LDT2011
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LDT2011
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In reply to marec <<


Date: 5/31/12 1:25 PM

Quote: marec
You could start with a lightweight interfacing, and double it if you need more stiffness. For your shirtdress, you'll need interfacing behind the buttonholes and the placket. The dress will look better with a crisper interfacing along the placket. Try some samples of fusible and sew in...oh, and I have started using sew in on facings as I think it looks better there than fusible. Good discussion!

i have used lightweight before and thats the one i find to stiff. is there a lighter lightweight? so light u wouldn't know its there.
I don't understand what the placket is for...a normal shirt doesn't have one...well not the ones ive sewn?

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'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

stirwatersblue
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Date: 5/31/12 2:29 PM

The button placket is the strip down the front of a shirt/blouse/dress/etc where the buttons and buttonholes are set, and you want that to have some body so it doesn't wrinkle or flop around there:



I'm not sure what you mean when you say "a normal shirt" doesn't have them...? Where are you putting your buttons, then?

The lightweight interfacing I use is seriously lightweight--the best comparison I have is to a used fabric softener dryer sheet. It's softer than tissue, very thin and airy. I just used it to add the teensiest bit of body to the waistband on some pj pants, and it's almost imperceptible (ideally, I'd have used something a hair stiffer, but this was handy).
-- Edited on 5/31/12 2:31 PM --

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JTink
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 5/31/12 3:05 PM

There is a "featherweight" iron on interfacing. I use it a lot. I like to interface my facings, waist bands and button plackets.

beginagain
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 5/31/12 3:10 PM

A shirt without a collar band usually doesn't have a placket. I like wing collars and they use facings.

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marec
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 6/1/12 1:21 AM

Quote:
i have used lightweight before and thats the one i find to stiff. is there a lighter lightweight? so light u wouldn't know its there. I don't understand what the placket is for...a normal shirt doesn't have one...well not the ones ive sewn?


Try a fusible that is featherweight, and double it if needed. The interfacing will be limp and give just the smallest amount of strength to the placket etc. Pam, from Off The Cuff blog sells some great interfacing.

The placket can be visible or not, depending upon the style of shirt/shirtdress. I like the sporty look you get with the visible placket. It provides strength and reinforcement to the buttons on the shirt or shirtdress. Some blouses don't use a visible placket, but just have a facing. In that case, I would add some squares of interfacing to the buttons and buttonholes.

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LDT2011
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In reply to beginagain <<


Date: 6/1/12 4:45 AM

Quote: beginagain
A shirt without a collar band usually doesn't have a placket. I like wing collars and they use facings.

The two shirts I've sewn have been like that. Hense why I've not done a placket before.

------
'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

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