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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Anyone know of a tutorial for knit binding on a square neckline? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Anyone know of a tutorial for knit binding on a square neckline?
Or just some photos would help.
marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/31/12 1:54 PM

I'm working on drafting neckline variations for a TNT knit dress, and want to try a square neck with a self binding.

Does anyone know of a tutorial, or some photos on a review or blog that can clue me in on sewing a mitered knit binding? Thanks!

(I've looked over the Jalie website, and didn't find anything specifically for a square neckline. However, the technique in
this Jalie video tutorial for V-necks shows how to overlap the ends of the binding at the V point, rather than mitering. Has anyone tried this for a square-neck? Does it seem like it would work OK, or do you think the binding would pull apart at the corners where it's not mitered?)

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marjoriekh

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 5/31/12 3:42 PM

I'm going to suggest a combination of two tutorials:

Neckline Binding Turorial. Note that this basic technique can be used for both wovens and knits. This tutorial discussed how to bind a rounded knit neckline.

Double-fold Bias Tape and Square Neckline Tutorial. This tutorial shows how to bind a square neckline on a woven with woven bias tape. This is a technique that can be found in More Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina. The author of the tutorial mentions that this is where she was exposed to this technique.

The last photo in this tutorial shows how to sew the "square" miter into the binding. See how she has sewn a "V" in the wrong side of the binding. My recollection of the More Power Sewing technique is that you then need to clip that "V" to the inner corner of the "V" without cutting the stitches.

Whether you do a fold over binding, as in the first tutorial, or you choose to sew the binding on like ribbing, sewing that "V" into the binding or ribbing is what will give that square "inside corner" in the binding/ribbing.

CMC

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 5/31/12 5:30 PM

Thanks, CMC, for those links. I've used the second method on wovens with success, and I'll probably give it a try.

Being lazy, I am still hoping that there is an easy method just for knits that I can do with one hand tied behind my back.

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marjoriekh

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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 5/31/12 6:27 PM

Neckline Binding for Knits - Threads Magazine Video

I agree that the fold over binding method will probably work quite well. However, it seems like there should be a way to sew ribbing on the neckline, as shown in the linked Threads video, with a square neckline, doesn't it? You've presented such an interesting puzzle that I keep turning over and over in my mind.

In the video, she is adjusting the "stretch" of the ribbing/binding more or less as she goes, but she has one continuous stitching line to work with around the neckline. With a square neckline, there are actually two separate stitching lines: the front of the neckline between the two miters and then the rest of the neckline, from one miter around the back of the neck to the other miter. (If you have a square neckline in the back, too, then there are four separate stitching lines on the neckline.)

With a square neckline, if (generic) you sew the "mitered" corners into the ribbing first, then the measurement between the two miters should probably be slightly less than the measurement between the two corners on the garment, so that the ribbing pulls in slightly, so the front neckline isn't floppy. Because each knit is different, it would require some experimentation to determine how much shorter the "between the miters" ribbing measurement should be.

The other option would be to sew stay stitching on the corners of the neckline, clip the corners to the stay stitching, then sew on the ribbing in one big "circle" similar to the first tutorial in my first post, and similar to the video linked in this post. The problem with this approach is that the excess ribbing needs to be folded (darted) and somehow stitched in the corners. If you fold a "dart" in the ribbing and stitch it on the inside of the garment, you'll have a lot of bulk in the corner. I wonder if folding/pushing the excess ribbing fabric at the corners inside itself, that is, to the inside of the ribbing, then hand stitching, would work? That is, you end up sewing that "V" dart AFTER you've sewn the ribbing on.

To me, this sounds like an interesting theory, but one that may not actually work in practice (a few of my sewing "theories" have turned out that way). You could sew a small sample to test this out: start with a piece of the knit fabric with an "inside" square corner cut into it. Stay stitch, clip, then sew a straight line of wrong-sides-folded-together ribbing to it.

Can the excess ribbing fabric at the corner be manipulated into a dart or miter that looks acceptable? That's the important question.

CMC
-- Edited on 5/31/12 6:29 PM --
-- Edited on 5/31/12 7:16 PM --

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 5/31/12 10:21 PM

CMC, this sounds like it could work. I think I will get out some scraps and try the 3 methods - the Jalie V-neck overlap style, the fold-over mitered binding, and the continuous ribbing method you outline above, and see which one looks most promising.

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marjoriekh

LynnRowe
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 6/1/12 4:25 PM

I need to do a tute, coz the way I do this, it's a double-miter. And I can't write it out without doing it, lol!
-- Edited on 6/1/12 4:45 PM --

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

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LynnRowe
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 6/1/12 4:47 PM

NM!
-- Edited on 6/1/12 4:52 PM --

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 6/1/12 5:28 PM

Starting a new future search term so I can find this later.

bindingknitthread

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 6/1/12 5:35 PM

Oh, please do! -- Would love to see your double miter method.

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marjoriekh

LynnRowe
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 6/2/12 2:18 AM

Well that was useless, lol! Someone needs to come take the pics while I sew...coz I do not have enough hands.

To apply binding as a "ribbing", meaning only one row of stitching to attach it, I pre-mitre the binding for both corners. You have to mitre one corner, then gently stretch the binding along the neckline pattern and mark with a pin where the next corner will be. If you don't do the stretching, your binding will be 1:1 with the top neckline, and droop.

What you end up with is a finished mitred binding slightly smaller than your top neckline.

You then have to stay stitch and clip the top into the corners, and sew the binding to the top, right sides and raw edges together, stretching the binding to fit.

All in all, it's not that easy to do, which is why you rarely see square necklines in knits, RTW or pattern.

Doing the Jalie V method is easier, but you do get a bit more bulk with the triangular flap the forms from the mitering. You can beat the bulk into flat submission though by hard-pressing the triangular flap on a clapper, if you have one (block of wood). Then hand tack the flap down with a couple little stitches. With jersey knits, you can get the flap very thin, almost non-existent.

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

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