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Making a velvet jacket First big garment project with this fabric & I have questions
stirwatersblue Intermediate KS USA Member since 12/13/08 Posts: 2473	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 5/31/12 2:54 PM I've sewn a little with velvet--mostly holiday decorations like Christmas tree skirts and stockings, and the occasional little bag or hat--but I've never taken the leap into making a serious garment with it before. I'm familiar with things like using the walking foot, being careful with pins, pressing with a Velva board, etc. But I have some questions about garment construction with velvet, and I'm hoping the PR mavens can help! This is what I'm making: I'm using Simplicity 1819, with tweaks to make it match the inspiration piece. Here are my questions: 1. Pre-treating Do I need to? How? The fabric is a very plush poly (described as "micro velvet" on the selvage). My instinct is to steam it in the dryer, like I would with wool or other non-washables. Yes? No? At the moment it doesn't look like it needs anything, but I don't want to omit a crucial step. 2. Marking What's the best way to mark both the pattern markings and the lines for the couched trim (which I will probably be doing by hand)? 3. Stabilizing/interfacing The fabric is enormously drapey, and I'm making something with a little bit of structure to it. The woman at the cutting counter thought I wouldn't need to stabilize for a bolero (since it's short and won't have that much weight to pull the fabric out of shape), but I'm not sure. It just falls all over itself (in a lovely way). 4. Lining I splurged on some Bemberg rayon for the lining, because at almost $30/yard the velvet seemed to deserve it, and because it's a jacket & I want it to glide smoothly over the blouse beneath... but I've never worked with it before, and it seems kinda... tricksy and slippery. Is it easier to use than it looks? Or should I go with something like a cotton broadcloth, which would also have a little more body and would probably help with issue #3? Anything else I need to know before I dive--er, wade very slowly--into this? Thanks!! ------ ~Gem in the prairie
Nikki   Advanced MD USA Member since 4/8/02 Posts: 2427	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 5/31/12 5:17 PM 1. I wouldn't bother pretreating, although it probably wouldn't hurt to steam in the dryer if you have that capability. The risk here is damaging the pile accidentally before you even start. 2. I'm a big fan of tailors tacks in general. 3. If it acts at all like silk/rayon velvet, I'd interface it. I've made a silk velvet blazer before and I think I interfaced with silk organza. You could use a poly sheer with a crisp hand. 4. Sewing velvet onto something slippery is a beast. Prewash the bemberg, which should help a little bit. When you want to attach the rayon to the velvet, set aside a loooooong stretch of time, put on some soothing music, and stop immediately for a break when you get frustrated. Baste every seam at least once (you may be shocked at how much basted fabric can squirm) or maybe with two parallel bastings on either side of the seamline. Cotton broadcloth would be too 'sticky' and cling annoyingly to the layers under the jacket, imo. ------ mmmmm woooool
tinflutterby   Advanced CA USA Member since 8/9/11 Posts: 205	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 6/1/12 3:42 AM I agree with Nikki, I wouldn't pre-treat it for fear of messing up before I started. Tailors tacks and thread tracing is the way to mark it. I would seriously think about underlining the entire body with organza and still interface the front opening. You can use iron on onto the organza. It would give you a stable base for your trim. Can't speak to sewing on the velvet. I've been busy mastering sheers. -- Edited on 6/1/12 3:43 AM --
eforen Advanced Beginner HI USA Member since 5/28/12 Posts: 27	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 6/1/12 10:13 AM I will not be much help as of yet but I would be very interested in seeing the end result! ------ -Rel "A little nonsense now and then, is relished by the wisest men." - Willy Wonka (Gene Wilder) Check out my blog at LothTailor.com

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