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Vogue 2532- pin fitting crotch
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margaran
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Date: 5/31/12 10:22 PM

RE: Vogue 2532 http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/1570

I am VERY new to sewing clothes- as in this is my first project. I am trying to pin fit this pattern per the PP method. The of the crotch is a straight line. The of the crotch is indented. I have no idea how to pin this without making a weird crease in the crotch and making a rumpled mess of the pattern. I've reviewed the cutting layout and the indent is shown there too so I didn't cut the pattern out incorrectly.

Please help. I've been working on prepping the pattern for two days now and I'm very frustrated. Quilting was never like this.

Many thanks,

Maggie

eclair
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Date: 6/1/12 0:31 AM

You said:

"The of the crotch is a straight line. The of the crotch is indented."

The what of the crotch? I think we are missing a couple of words - can you fill in and we might be able to suggest something?

My first pair of trousers could have housed a family of camping rhinos they turned out so huge! You're very brave to start with pants!

I have a mad tin/aluminium foil crotch method I can describe if that helps?

petro
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Date: 6/1/12 2:09 AM

Do you have a pair of pants which fit ok? If so, lay the pattern carefully over them, comparing the crotch curve and the width at the hip, waist, and thigh level.

arianamaniacs
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Date: 6/1/12 2:56 AM

I don't know what the PP method is, but perhaps a quick muslin would help you better in this case.

margaran
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Date: 6/1/12 7:53 AM

Sorry- The front line of the crotch is straight. The back line of the crotch is indented midway between the top and the bottom. I would understand better if it was a curve that had to be eased in to the straight side.

I'm not having any issues w/ the fitting process. It's the joining of two disparate lines. I don't grasp the concept of joining a straight edge to two end points with an indented angle in the middle. Other pants I own don't have this feature.

PP is Palmer Pletsch.
The fabric I'm using is bull denim so just as cheap as muslin.

Thanks for your help,

Maggie

sewme47
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sewme47
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In reply to margaran <<


Date: 6/1/12 8:46 AM

Margaren, you're new to sewing garments but you're attempting pants??
Pants fitting frustrates even the most skilled and experienced fitting experts! Honestly, it's not just you...it's everyone!

With all due respect to the PP method, pin-fitting a tissue pants pattern is not very useful to the average home sewer. A quick muslin (meaning a practice garment, not necessarily made from muslin) will give you much better information. And pants fitting is a process that often takes several trial garments. Pants are challenging!!!!

Sew up the pattern and don't forget to clip the seam allowance in the crotch before trying them on. Then the real work begins...assessing the fit and deciding how to improve it.

Are you sure you don't want to make a t-shirt?

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

Fictionfan
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Date: 6/1/12 8:53 AM

If I understand your question correctly, you are trying to pin the front crotch to the back crotch. When you tissue fit, there is no pinning the crotch because you only have one front and one back. The crotch curve is formed by putting two fronts together at the center front and two backs together at the center back. The front and back crotch curve only meet at the top of the inseam.

Usually, once the front features like pockets and darts are formed, pants are made by sewing the two fronts together at the lower front crotch from the base of the zipper to the start of the curve, but not finishing the lower front crotch. This is so you can put in the zipper with a flatter working piece. You would only sew an inch or two for most pants. Put in the center front zipper, then you can finish the lower front crotch or wait until you put the inseams together, then sew the remaining portion of the crotch curve.

The back crotch curve is formed by sewing the two back pieces together. If you cut out your fabric with right sides together, you can take the back pieces straight to the machine and sew the back crotch. If you cut wrong sides together or cut the fabric single layer, you'll have to match the back pieces so the edges are even, then sew the center seam crotch curve.

The back inseam and front inseam will usually be different lengths at the top of the inseam, just below the crotch line for a few inches. You will need to ease the two halves together for that stretch of the inseam. You sew the front inseam to the back inseam, then you have a crotch curve. I usually reinforce the lower crotch curve with another layer of stitching before trimming the seam, and it can be reinforced further by pressing the seam to one side and edgestitching and/or topstitching the seam for a mock flatfell seam.

Alternatively, you can sew the crotch curve last. If there is no zipper or you have a side zipper and maybe if there is a back zipper, you could create the two legs by sewing the front and backs together at the inseams and outseams, without doing anything at the center seams = crotch curve. Place one leg inside the other, right sides together, then sew the crotch curve as one long, curved seam. You should have no trouble pinning this curve together since you are pinning the front to the front and the back to the back, which you cut from the same pattern pieces.

HTH


-- Edited on 6/1/12 8:57 AM --

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Sewnforever
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Date: 6/1/12 8:54 AM

Eclair, Please would you share your tin foil method? I used to make all my trousers 20+ years ago without a problem but since coming back to sewing have had one disaster after another often centered around a droopy crotch.

eclair
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In reply to Sewnforever <<
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Date: 6/1/12 9:20 AM

Sure! I found the instructions here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?ID=957

First I tie a piece of elastic around my waist.

I measure my waist. I mark on the elastic the centre point of my front, the centre point on my back and the widest point of my hips - this is basically where the front, back and side seams will be on my trousers. So I've divided my waist into quarters. I'll use these later for measuring. At this point it is helpful to get your partner or a really good friend to help you.

Now I do the tin foil front-to-back as described in the link above. But before I step out of it I also hang a piece of string from the centre point of my front elastic, under my bottom through to the centre point of my back elastic, right alongside the foil snake. Slide a key onto this piece of string and let it hang a little loose and free. The point on the string where the string settles is your crotch depth. Mark the string. The length of the string from your front elastic (at your waist) to the key is your front crotch length. The distance from the key to your back waist elastic is your back crotch length.

If, like me, your waist, hips and butt defy all known figure descriptions (flat bum, pot belly, saddlebags, I have them all) then at intervals down that crotch string (say every four inches) measure your self with a tape measure around your hips and butt. Measure EACH SIDE. Apparently I have one butt cheek bigger than the other which explains a lot. One of my hips is higher. And my pot belly is lopsided. No wonder I can't find trousers to fit!

By measuring every few inches from the front string to the back string I can see if the trouser front and back sections are going to be wide enough. And I can see that one side needs different alterations compared to the other side.

I'm sorry if that all sounds rather confused. I used the tin foil crotch shape to find my shape and traced it onto a piece of paper. Then I add the key and string crotch depth measurement to find the inseam point. Then I use the hip measurements to draft or alter the waist to leg section of my trouser pattern - all four pieces are different!

I've done this a couple of times and it has worked really well for me. But I must admit that I can skip a lot of it by sticking to stretchy yoga pants!

KathySews
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Date: 6/1/12 9:34 AM

With all due respect to Palmer/Pletsch it is nearly impossible to pin fit thin tissue paper without a major mess.

I learned this method of fitting from a Susan Khalje couture class.
Trace the sewing lines of the pattern onto muslin/fabric (not your final fabric) - be sure to trace the sewing/stitching line. Cut out the pattern piece leaving very large seam allowances. Now baste or pin fit along the sewing lines. Using the muslin will be more manageable. Make changes (often over and over again) on the muslin. When you are happy you can use the muslin as your final pattern or trace that off onto pattern paper. I have a set of children's washable markers and make each change a different color so I can track where I am.

btw: I have sewn for years and still cannot make a decent pair of pants to fit. It is the most frustrating 2 pattern pieces you will ever work with. Just wanted to let you know so you don't beat yourself up if this becomes too frustrating.
-- Edited on 6/1/12 9:41 AM --

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