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Correct Seam Allowance on a particular pattern
what is the REAL seam allowance Vogue 1197 pants
kayco
kayco  Friend of PR
Beginner
California USA
Member since 6/3/12
Posts: 259
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Date: 6/4/12 5:20 PM

Please advice me on pattern drafting, I'm a reginner and I'm determine to do this right. I am using Vogue 1197 to make my first pants in years and right now I'm carefully measuring myself, similar rtw pants and the pattern but I'm confused about the adjusment for seam allowance as the back of the envelope says 1", but the general instructions say 5/8" unless otherwise noted. I cannot find a specific reference to the pant seam allowance in the instructions. They are a 1 seam pull on pant so perhaps its a typo on the envelope. The quote from the envelope follows:
MISSES' TOP AND PANTS: Semi-fitted, pullover tops A, B in two lengths have raglan sleeves shirred with elastic and two cowl variations, optional contrast cordless piping. Close-fitting, 1" seam pull-on pants C with side slits and elastic waist. All have stitched hems.

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Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
Cricket - Bernina Artista 730e - Steady, Smart and Sweet
Renee - Berina 1150MDA - My Tiny Dancer

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Virginia USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
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In reply to kayco <<


Date: 6/4/12 5:25 PM

This is a Sandra Betzina pattern. She is a fitting expert as well as a designer. It may be that she has designed the pattern with some of the seam allowances at 1 inch in order to facilitate fitting.

I would look on the individual pants pattern pieces to see if some of the seams are marked as having larger seam allowances. Look at the side seams and crotch. Also, look carefully through the instructions, esp. the parts where you assemble the crotch and side seams, to see if the seam depth is indicated there.

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marjoriekh

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Member since 9/18/04
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Date: 6/4/12 5:31 PM

Take a look at the pattern itself to see if the 1" seam is called out. In my experience, if there is a seam allowance that is different than the rest of them, then it is almost always indicated on the pattern piece.

I also wonder if this is not a typo (an error) in the description. Perhaps what it should say is:

1-seam pants

That is, perhaps the wrong symbol was used in the text: a quote character " rather than - a hyphen.

A 1-seam pant means pants where each leg is cut in one piece, and the only seam is sewn on the inner leg; there is no side seam, thus "1-seam". You can verify this by looking at the first page of the instructions where all the pattern pieces are illustrated and described.

Edited to add: Thanks, Marjoriekh. I missed that this was a Sandra Betzina pattern; she uses 1" seams for final fitting seams. Agree that you need to check the actual pattern piece.

Edited to add #2: If the 1" seam is a final fitting seam, then the instructions should tell you to try on the pants and pin the final seam. When you sew it, it may or may not be 1-inch; it will be whatever width is needed to fit you properly. Therefore, you shouldn't be instructed to sew a specific 1-inch seam allowance seam. (Clear as mud, I know.)

I sewed a Lycra Star Trek TNG "jump suit" type costume once, where the final seam (one seam, sleeve to side seam, and down the outer leg) was a very long 1-inch seam that you fitted on the body. I must have read the instructions about 20 times before I had that "light bulb" moment where I understood what they wanted me to do.

C-M


-- Edited on 6/4/12 5:33 PM --
-- Edited on 6/4/12 5:54 PM --

kayco
kayco  Friend of PR
Beginner
California USA
Member since 6/3/12
Posts: 259
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Date: 6/4/12 11:44 PM

Thanks to both of you for your responses. I couldn't find a specific reference to the seam allowance anywhere including on the pattern piece. BUT, I think you helped me solve the mystery, next to the little symbol that signifies the hip line there are measurements listed for each size. These measurements are between 1" and 2" SMALLER than the measurements on the envelope. HMMMMM. I measured the pattern. if I subtract 1" seam allowances I get the measurement on the pattern . If I subtract 5/8" seam allowances I get the size on the envelope. Kewwwl!! So. . . you were right that it allows for fitting adjustments.
I'd like to add that this is the reason I chose a Sandra Betzina pattern as my first pant. I've sewn 2 of her patterns already and she is indeed instructive and thought provoking. It's also why I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something important.

------
Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
Cricket - Bernina Artista 730e - Steady, Smart and Sweet
Renee - Berina 1150MDA - My Tiny Dancer

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