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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Bias Cutting Question

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Bias Cutting Question
Can you cut with grain?
gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 6/5/12 9:06 AM

I have a vintage skirt pattern for wovens that calls for laying it diagonally on the bias to get the maximum swirl effect. However, with the new fabrics (starting with a soft rayon challis) couldn't it be positioned with the regular grainline and get the same effect?
Trying to get by with less fabric and make it longer. I think maybe before the variety of stretch/flowing fabrics more vintage patterns required this?

Older wrap dresses require bias layouts for at least the tops too.

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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In reply to gramma b <<
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Date: 6/5/12 9:19 AM

Bias is more than just drape. Because the piece is cut on the bias, it also elongates and narrows when you wear it, which means that this is taken into account in drafting the pattern. If you cut it off the bias, you might find that you have a garment with too much ease.

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Michelle

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gramma b
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In reply to Michelle L <<


Date: 6/5/12 5:10 PM

It's just a basic flippy A-line--when laid out with a more recent pattern, (S 4881, also diagonal for the A-line) ) they are almost the same. But my challis fabric is a directional print, so that may stop me. On the wrap dresses, the bodice is often diagonal and the skirt not, I assume for that little stretch across? Of course this can throw off a print you want to try.

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