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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Sleeve Adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Sleeve Adjustment
Not sure what I need to do here.
lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/7/12 10:02 AM

Hello Everyone,
Hopefully this won't be too confusing.
I am working on a muslin for a knit empire waist dress. I've got the bodice exactly like I want it, now I am working on the sleeves.

So my question is about what type of adjustment I need to make.

I am using McCalls 5893 View B. It has set in sleeves that are banded around the bottom.

Now, I like everything about the sleeve (fit in armscye seam, fit around bicep, fit aroud banded hem) except that it does not seem long enough on the outside of my arm. Sorry, no pics, but I drew this picture to try to explain.

My sleeve hem is at an angle, like the one on the left. But it seems to me that the banded hem should be parallel to the floor like the one I drew on the right. Like this photo:


When I look at the line drawing, the sleeves hems are not parallel to the floor and at a slight angle, but I am plus sized and have full biceps, so I think that sleeves parallel to the floor will be more flattering than sleeves that fall right across the fullest part of my arm.

So, my question is...is this a sleeve cap height adjustment? Because I need to add 3.5 inches to get the sleeve to sit parallel. That seems like a lot. And I am happy with the sleeve in every other way, so I hate to mess it up.

As always, I appreciate your suggestions!

heathergwo
heathergwo  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
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Date: 6/7/12 11:53 AM

Does the pattern piece have one of those "lengthen or shorten here" set of double lines? If so, you can easily add those inches on the pattern piece at that point before cutting. If NOT, I THINK you can just pick what seems to be the center of the sleeve length, cut it, add in those inches and tape it back together. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in to confirm if this is the best way to do it.

If unsure, you can always make a muslin to confirm!

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
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GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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CA USA
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Date: 6/7/12 12:38 PM

If the shoulders on the garment aren't wide enough for your body, they could be pulling up the sleeves.

------
I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/7/12 12:45 PM

Thanks @GI Butterfly. No, the shoulder seams sit right on top of the pivot point. If anything, they are a smidge wide.

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 6/7/12 4:24 PM

Heather has a good suggestion. Try cutting across and lengthening the sleeve. I checked the reviews of this dress and Christy S. is one that used sleeves. I didn't read her review, but her sleeves look pretty level. Do you have a large upper arm? I do and this will happen to me sometimes, if I don't enlarge the sleeve.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 6/7/12 6:46 PM

Irstanfill, you can easily make the sleeves longer, but I feel I must let you know that horizontal line across fuller arms is not flattering, I would keep the angle, even on a bit longer sleeve. To make sleeve relax and fall vertically you'd need to add to sleeve cap height.

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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KY USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 6/8/12 1:00 PM

@Lena Merrin, being plus sized I always feel that sleeves that angle up look like they are too little for the people wearing them. No?
What do others think?
I'm finishing the first version of the dress tonight without adjustments and will post pictures. I would love to get opinions before I start my second dress.

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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OR USA
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Date: 6/8/12 7:04 PM

FWIW, I think short sleeves as your second drawing shows are not flattering. I prefer a short sleeve with a bit of an angle. Elbow length with a straight hem look okay, and even have a sporty look.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Michelle T

Michelle T
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BC CANADA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/8/12 8:50 PM

I have very large upper arms and they tend to pull the outer edge of sleeves up. If you make sure you have enough room for your arm, your sleeve should hang a bit better. You may need some extra length on the outer edge to make it hang properly.

Just as a FBA adds extra length to the front of a shirt as well as giving room for the larger breast.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
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In reply to lrstanfill <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/9/12 1:30 AM

I suggest for dress #2 cutting a muslin sleeve to try different ways and see for yourself what's best:

* Trace a sleeve muslin and mark the original pattern cap stitch line in ink on your muslin.

* Cut the muslin, with about 2 inches additional fabric at the peak of the cap center shoulder notch. Blend shape that extra in a curve to the sleeve head notches front and back. You're making a very roomy cap to experiment with.

* You probably won't need it all, but it's hard to say what will make the sleeve hang well and to your liking.

* Thread or pin baste the underarm sleeve between the front and back notches.

* Try on the garment with the cap area free.

* Drape in the sleeve cap by pinning quickly, no need to perfect now. Be patient, you can do it on yourself.

* Try different variations to see your preference for look, fit and arm movement. Usually it's a compromise. You might have to add to the body back armhole width to get comfortable reaching forward room. Pretend you're driving a car.

You can really see how flattering it is/is not to get the sleeve parallel to the floor or somewhat tipped up, longer, shorter, etc. I suggest taking photos of yourself front, side and back. So much more revealing than looking in a mirror. Ask me how I know.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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