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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Sideseam after converting dart to fullness

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Sideseam after converting dart to fullness
LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/10/12 9:54 PM

I'm working on a sleeveless top and when I tried it on an unsewn dart appeared in the armhole. For future use I went back to the pattern, folded out the dart and then converted it to fullness at the side seam which I will gather up. So far so good, I hope.

My question: do I keep the same side seam shape as the 'splayed out' bits give me after I cut it out - a curved shape like a little bulge on the side seam, or do I true the seam and straighten it out?

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LynnRowe
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 6/11/12 0:18 AM

I true the side seams.

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LauraTS
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Date: 6/11/12 1:27 AM

Thanks, Lynn! I'll give that a try.

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LynnRowe
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 6/11/12 2:16 AM

I much prefer gathers to bust darts.
-- Edited on 6/11/12 2:18 AM --

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Sharon Rose
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Date: 6/11/12 4:10 PM

Laura: some of that fullness you reference in the new side seam (the bulge) might be part of your dart fullness and you might not want to eliminate it when truing up the side seam. I have seen that eased into the seam instead of sewing a bust dart. This is usually in a knit top. You can see what I am talking about if you go to Debbie Cook's Blog site where she addresses a FBA and eliminates a dart in the side seam. http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/03/alterations-full-bust-adjustment-with_01.html . She is a member of patternreview and has numerous, helpful tutorials.

LauraTS
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Date: 6/12/12 7:48 PM

Sharon, your link to Debbie's blog doesn't work for me, but yes, I will definitely be doing some gathering on the top part of the front before I put the front and back together - there's way too much volume there to ease without gathering. What I'm wondering about is whether I'll be eliminating some needed width if I just true the seam straight down. I guess the length of the side seams is already different - as long as I can gather it in it should be fine.

Lynn, me too - I've only done it on purpose a couple of times, but there are a few Ottobre patterns that use gathering in the side seam in lieu of a dart for larger sizes, and I really like it. It's easy to sew and it's very unobtrusive, since most of us have our arms at our sides most of the time.

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Sharon Rose
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Date: 6/13/12 11:44 AM

Laura, I am sorry you were unable to view Debbie's tutorial on the FBA. Did you copy and paste it? I tried copying and pasting it, and had no problem opening it. Unfortunately I don't know how to set this up for you to just click onto my entry.
BTW. I used the info from Debbie's tutorial and it worked great for me. I have a DD cup and did not eliminate any of the fullness when truing up the side. Basically what she does is creates a side seam dart by dong a FBA. Rotates it to the side waist and makes it disappear into the side seam. Using the original side seam as a guide she redraws the new side, returning it to its original location. Hope this makes sense.
Good luck on your top. It sounds like it will be flattering.

AdaH
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 6/13/12 12:27 PM

Go to Silhouette patterns websit and watch last mondays webcast. It is all about darts.
First question I would ask you is: Is the circumference of the blouse OK before you did anything about the gaping in the armhole?
If you have enough circumference then you do not need more depth for you bust.
To eliminate the gaping you need an "external" dart. This is a dart that isn't sewn, it is done on the pattern piece only. You pinch the fabric in the muslin till the gaping is gone. This is the amount you will use for your external dart. On your pattern piece you cut a line from the armhole to but not thru center front. Now overlap the line at the armhole that amount. Gaping will be gone.

I have leaned so much from watching Peggy's webcasts.

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Ada

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