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Pants center front seam
slanted or straight- what is the difference
wood turtle

wood turtle
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Minnesota USA
Member since 9/18/02
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Date: 6/11/12 3:51 PM

I have checked the boards and did not find anything about this topic.

For a large waist, Pants for Real People suggests to straighten the center front seam to add some width.

What is the difference in fit between a slanted or straight center front seam? It seems you would be removing some of the bias stretch if you did that, or perhaps that is not desirable for a large waisted person.

I did find a thread that said that ready to wear pants usually have center front pants seam straight.

Any information on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/11/12 5:09 PM

For me, a straighter center front hangs better without strange pant wrinkles.
-- Edited on 6/11/12 5:09 PM --

carolynw
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carolynw  Friend of PR
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In reply to wood turtle <<


Date: 6/11/12 5:11 PM

Not sure this is all that helpful but I do straighten the front center seam and find no difference in fit - it does add roughly 1/2" to the waist.

Although I know the CFS is off grain am not sure what you mean by bias stretch as far as fit goes - you can check RTW and they do have the seam on straight of grain - even the very expensive brands.


GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 6/11/12 6:47 PM

A slanted center front seam means that there is a "dart" there. It can't be seen, but if you draw it so it goes staight up you will see that a wedge/unsewn dart has been formed. If you have a tummy the extra amount of fabric (straight seam) allows more room which is usually necessary.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

wood turtle

wood turtle
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Minnesota USA
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Date: 6/12/12 2:11 PM

Thanks for your replies.

I thought that if the CF seam is at a slant, it will have some bias stretch.

It's interesting that ready to wear uses a straight CF seam, I wonder what is the reason for that.

My measurements are 46 1/2" hips and 40" waist, so I will try a size 22 and enlarge the waist rather that try a 24.

landstromd
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Date: 6/23/12 3:37 PM

I too have a large waist and so am very interested in your question.
How do you make a straight CF seam? And, how would you do it on the slant?
Sorry, but I cannot picture it!

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/23/12 4:29 PM

A slanted front does replace a dart. Think about jeans - no darts (usually), but a close fit. A straight on-grain front has a more skirt-like fit.

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to landstromd <<


Date: 6/24/12 0:57 AM

Just take a ruler, begin about the zip stop level and draw a line upward. The distance between your new line and the original cf seam at the waist is the amount you increased. Give it a try and if you've added too much, you can always trim off some of the fabric. A straight cf seam adds fabric to the below-the-waist area which is needed by a lot of women. I believe the fit is better with a straighter center front seam. A very thin person with no belly can have the cf seam on a great slant.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

nancy2001
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In reply to wood turtle <<


Date: 6/24/12 9:00 PM

There wouldn't be any bias stretch even if the CF seam were sewn at a slanted angle. Bias stretch would occur only if the fabric were oriented on the bias. But the fabric is oriented on the grain and stays on the grain, Sewing the seam at an angle has no effect on the grain.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

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