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Embellishing velvet with trim
soutache/middy or metallic cord
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue  Friend of PR
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
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Date: 6/13/12 5:40 PM

As I've mentioned in a couple of previous threads, I'm recreating Kate Beckinsale's signature bolero jacket from the movie "Van Helsing:"



I have a couple of nice embellishment feet for my Viking (a three-hole trim foot, and a braid foot with the funnel-guide thingy), and a test run with some metallic soutache on some scrap velvet turned out surprisingly pain-free! I haven't tried gold cord yet, but if I can find some in my stash, that's next up.

I'm sort of diving in without any research or experience embellishing on velvet, or using these feet (but a lifetime of hand-embroidery experience), and I'd love to hear tips or suggestions if anyone has them!

I know I need some stabilizer, to keep the velvet from puckering (which it did a little in the test), but I haven't the foggiest idea where to start. I have freezer paper and fusible interfacing on hand, but no "real" stabilizer. What should I look for?

I'm also wondering if the soutache is flexible enough to make those curves and sharp turns, or if cord would be easier to work with.

Really, I'm starting from scratch, and anything anyone can tell me will be helpful!

Thanks!

------
~Gem in the prairie

Holly Hobby
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Holly Hobby
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In reply to stirwatersblue

Date: 12/22/15 7:04 AM

I know this is only a thousands years too late, but the lack of interest in soutache here & elsewhere is really sad. I've several feet for running flat cord and found that the sequins'n'ribbon foot set worked best for braid embellishment on jackets. Bonus score comes with numerous shanks to use on all your other machines (and thusly cheat the exclusivity between brands too, ahahaha).

By all means draw your design onto some scrap & have at, with a good setup it should be quite easy to wheel about. Soutache art is nothing like quilting however, don't try to freemotion it.
At some point I began using the cord feed on my singer 241-12 and may I say HOT DAMN. That enabled me to take textile design to a whole other level. So yes, there are incentives to doing things 'the hard way'.

I use silk velvet, & line completely with lightweight linen (unless stage design then horsehair), hand tacking running seams into the joins & hems. Hand embroidery is better than machine but if you should decide it may be quicker do load up on stabilizer test swatches! Too many reasons to cover for a basic shout out; don't use window mesh or paper products. Ideally one should feel like the stabilizer would be strong enough to 'hold the stitches you put on it's plate' (not fold or buckle), heavier or well starched cotton can do. Trim excess when done.
Any old lining will do after everything is dolled up. Embroider your name in for extra fun (and yes it will be fun).

And this concludes my foray into this site. May many others learn & love this peculiar embellishment as much as I've come to.





------
Pfaffbulous, dahling.

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