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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Raising a neckline on mock wrap front ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raising a neckline on mock wrap front
Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 6/15/12 3:17 AM

I'm making a Butterick 5319 dress
Butterick 5319

I'm making a muslin and it seem to fit ok, but the neckline is a little low for my taste. (especially if I bend down it'll show inside)
Is there a way to raise this type of neckline?

I've tried it with similar dress pattern
V1235
I just added about 1/2in to the neckline, but it ended up gaping.
I'm not sure if it was because it's a knit, or would it happen to all types of fabrics?

sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 6/15/12 6:54 AM

You can run a line of 1/4 inch elastic along the top of the neckline...I have been doing this on my wrap front dresses.

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sarah in nyc
www.sewnewyork.blogspot.com

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/15/12 10:10 AM

Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics wrote about how do this on her blog.

The gaping is another matter, and depending on your bust size may require an FBA or an SBA. There's some discussion of the FBA on wraps here. I think there is probably much more on the boards on this topic, as well.

I need to do an SBA, which removes about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of the length of the crossover on each side, and in knits I cut the binding about 3 inches shorter than the neckline length (depending on the stretch in my fabric), to pull that neckline snug. Make sure you stabilize the entire neckline just after cutting (knit or woven), before the fabric has a chance to stretch out in sewing, since that whole front neckline is on the bias. Strips of regular fusible interfacing for wovens, and knit tape for knits, work well for this purpose.

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marjoriekh

LynnRowe
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 6/15/12 12:17 PM

If you have gaping, you need to shorten your binding. When you attach the binding, gently pull it (binding only; don't pull on the garment!) as you sew/serge it to the neckline. You want more pull along the back neckline, to keep it snug against your neck; less over the shoulder areas, and again more pull over the front neckline areas.

I don't stay stitch knits, but don't let the garment hang off an edge, and pick it up as a rolled bundle, not by the fabric edges, to prevent it stretching before you sew.

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 6/15/12 6:47 PM

Thank you for the tips.
This pattern has a lining, so I can't really adjust the binding... Or use the elastic.
The shoulder is also falling off a bit, so I shifted inward about 1/2in. This might reduce the amount of skin showing around the chest.
Then I raised the front by about 1/3in using the blog mentioned.
Hopefully it works!!

As for SBA, I might need it a bit... But the process scares me!!
One day when I'm brave enough I'll give it a try...

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 6/17/12 11:23 PM

I'm almost done with this dress, and ugh, I do need SBA. :(
The front is gaping.
It's not as noticeable but I do need to wear a cami underneath. :(
I guess I need to learn how to do an SBA...
I feel like I need to perfect this pattern.

strongnow
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Date: 6/19/12 2:13 PM

Thanks so much for this information. It is just what I need for my next dress project. Perfect timing!

Mikgirl
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In reply to strongnow <<


Date: 6/19/12 2:32 PM

Strongnow,
I finished my dress and here's the review.
Butterick 5319 review

I still need to work on the SBA, and found Slapdash's tutorial.
I'll have to learn it...
SBA tutorial

Nancy K
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In reply to Mikgirl <<


Date: 6/19/12 6:36 PM

If you raise the neckline at the cf by curving into the remainder of the neckline you are actually adding to the length of the neckline since a curve is longer than a straight line. You can take it up at the shoulder and or ease to a stay tape.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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