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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA for a wrap dress with no dart?

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FBA for a wrap dress with no dart?
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/15/12 10:43 PM

I'm looking at Simplicity 1880 with a wrap front bodice, but I just can't quite figure out how to make adjustments to this. Clearly, it's meant to have a certain amount of bagginess, but I can't visualize how it's supposed to fit a curvier figure. I also haven't been able to find any help in my books, the boards here or tutorials online. If there are any suggestions, I would be greatful. Otherwise, I think I may abandon this pattern and look for something else.

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Melanie

tinflutterby
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Date: 6/16/12 1:31 AM

If the bust point is marked on the pattern that is really helpful in this kind of pattern. Tissue fit to see if it is where it ought to be. I am also assuming that you do FBA enough to know what you usually have to add. Do that just like you normally do. Then rotate the side dart up to the shoulder if there is a lot you can rotate some to the waist too. You can leave a little on the side and ease it in. At the waist and shoulder you will either have deeper tucks or another one. My experience with wraps is I need to run a slightly shorter stay along the bodice front to pull it in a little. I would probably make a muslin as I have also had to change the angle of the neck/wrap to get the coverage I want. It seems to be the biggest challenge. THe wrap angle has to be just right because it can't go up onto he ladies much without gaping but I don't want the V down to my bra band either. I have done it successfully with knits but haven't tried with a woven yet. I think some patterns would require a modesty panel across the V.

Sharon Rose
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Date: 6/16/12 8:09 AM

don't forget that when you make a FBA for a wrap front bodice that you must also keep in mind that the "wrap tail" will be affected. Add the adjustment for the side that wraps under/over the opposite bust. I didn't think about that and ended up with a tightness on each side of the bodice even though the bust area was full enough. What I am trying to say is that you make 2 adjustments to each side of the bodice top...the FBA plus the "tail" that crosses over to the other side. This "tail" must have the added inches that were made for the FBA it overlaps. I read about this somewhere after I had made the wrap top and had a light bulb moment. I suddenly understood why the top was uncomfortable. Can anyone add to this?..or better explain?

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/16/12 10:29 AM

I tried one muslin by adding extra width equally to the three waist darts, which was sort of ok, but not great and I wasn't completely sure how to then properly true up the side seams. So I tried another muslin with the more tradtional approach of adding a dart then spreading the waist width equally along the three was darts. This resulted in a super baggy sack and the dart just hung there. I hadn't thought of rotating it to the shoulder, but that is logical, especially since there is already fullness in the shoulder that's clearly meant to replace a dart.

Somewhere I recently found a link to an fba for a wrap top that describes how to also make the adjustments to the wrap tails. It's on the georgeous things bog, but your explanation of why it's necessary helps.

I think it's harder to understand how a baggy top is supposed to fit than a fitted one, you know? I find I can't read the wrinkles in the muslin to determine what I need to do. I've never been good at baggy clothes, but wanted to branch out a little. I'm considering another wrap pattern with cap sleeves from Vogue that comes with cup size pieces.

Thank you so much for these replies, they are really helpful!

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Melanie

Fictionfan
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Date: 6/16/12 11:26 AM

meleliza,

This is a problem I have struggled with also. If I move the extra width I need for the FBA into the gathers, darts, pleats or shirring at the center parts of the bodice, the dart rotation doesn't put the depth shaping where I need it. I often keep the pleats, folds, gathers, etc where they are and just add a side bust dart or a combination of side and waist darts. I don't really care if it alters the design if I can wear the garment comfortably. No one but I will know that the side bust dart was not supposed to be there in the original design.

Also, depending on how large your bust is, a small tuck in the cross-over of the wrap might be needed to keep the wrap from gaping. When you add FBA width and length to the cross-over neckline, you increase the length of the neckline bias edge. It doesn't take much to have this bias edge stretch, and that makes for more tendency to gape. In my recent review of Vogue 1157, I described the problems I had with getting that wrap to fit, and in the end I had to take length out of the neckline bands and increase the amount of overlap to get the neckline not to gape. If your bust is larger than the wrap can accommodate, you may need to ignore the markings of the pattern, as I did, and just make the wrap work to fit you.

HTH

Note: My FBA for Vogue 1157 doesn't show the other side of the bodice adjustment that Sharon Rose mentioned earlier because the wrap portion does not cross over to the opposite bustline.
-- Edited on 6/16/12 11:32 AM --
-- Edited on 6/16/12 11:34 AM --

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Fictionfan

Silknmore
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Date: 6/16/12 11:52 AM

Even though the pattern doesn't have one, my thought is to add a horizontal dart to accomodate for the fullness. I just posted a tip and made a blog entry on how to do this in a different type of dress. Hope it works for you.

Annette

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Silknmore
http://fabricateandmira.wordpress.com/

janlorraine

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In reply to meleliza <<
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Date: 6/16/12 1:13 PM

It looks to me that the dart has been moved to the shoulder and changed into pleats.

wendyrb
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 6/16/12 2:13 PM

Hard for me to see from the line drawings, but looks like your pattern has the gathers and pleats parallel to the Center Front. Please keep patiently reading since it may help you understand something that took me a looooong time to sort out. Wraps and FBA are a tricky combo!

YOUR PATTERN: Lucky you, there's 2 places to distribute the FBA. You always get a better fit when you can shape a curve from more than one direction- think princess seam. I'd do a FBA and place the fullness 1/2 in the shoulder fullness and 1/2 at the waist fullness.

CLASSIC FBA: gives you the bust length needed so the waist sits at your waist. It's work, but your dress will be comfortable. No tugging to get it right, especially on a woven which is less forgiving than a knit.


ALTERNATIVE: McCall's 5974 Palmer Pletsch wrap dress for knits. With pattern work, it works for me, though my pattern looks like WWIII! I think this fits well because the waist pleats are angled towards the bust point. And also, the pleats are stitched part way so they control the fullness approaching the bust and then release. They give a bit more focused shape like a dart and the softness of a pleat without bagginess.

FBA: I did 2 to find just enough, but not too much, fitting ease. It may be hard to picture- I sliced into the pleats keeping the same angle they are stitched in. It would have been neater on paper to just slice down parallel to the Center Front as usual. However, the diagonal slice kept the fullness directed to the bust fullness. To get the cut edge shape at the bodice bottom, I folded the pleats closed; held them with tape and then cut to get the pleat cut line on the proper angle. This was key to lapping the pleats accurately- this is what cups the fabric around the bust. Messing that cut and lap line messes with the fit.

NECKLINE GAP: On paper I also sliced into the neckline to the bust point and lapped out a scant 3/8" and distributed this into the FBA. In knit, I stayed the neck with Knit Stay Tape from Emma Seabrooke- DO NOT STAY STITCH KNITS. She also has a woven Straight Stay Tape- both extremely fine. I saw on PR a suggestion to fuse the stay tape on while the pattern is pinned to the cloth to ensure accuracy.

I hope all this helps and look forward to learning from others. This is such a great site. Honestly, I had never heard of FBA before PR. Thank you all.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Coconuts
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Date: 6/16/12 3:58 PM

If you can wait a couple of weeks to be finished with this, A Fashionable Stitch is doing a sew along for it. NAYY

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/16/12 4:12 PM

Actually, cocoknits, I'm getting a head start for the sew along!

Anyway, I did try adding a side dart, but it was baggy and sloppy I think because the pattern is a loose fitting one. The gathers at the shoulder and small pleats at the waist are clearly the alternative to a bust dart. Thinking about it some more with everyone's help, I think I will rotate the dart to the shoulder and gather it up more. I hope that will keep the gentle fullness of the pattern without looking like a sack of potatoes. If this 3rd attempt doesn't look nice on me, I'll pick another pattern. It could be that it's simply not flattering for a large bust.

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Melanie

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