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How to adjust from loose fitting to close fitting
And keep the drapey top
tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/17/12 12:08 PM

I almost gave up on this project and bought a pattern rather than trying all the adjustments, but the patterns I see are all loose fitting. Well, Kwik Sew 3652 claims to be fitted, but has no darts and the photo looks pretty loose, as KS patterns often are.

Here is the pattern I am working with. I did an FBA on it years ago to remove the armscye gap. Now I need to morph it onto this dress and keep it quite close fitting without doing gigantic fish eye darts. The final fabric is a loose sort of boucle and I don't think it will take that kind of darting well.

The brilliant idea I had this morning will only work if a center front seam won't make the drape wonky.

On the up side, the back looks pretty good. I very much want a working muslin to take with me next Saturday to meet the eventual recipient. I can always put yesterday's version back together. It is close, but not quite there yet. Any idea appreciated!

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to tourist <<


Date: 6/17/12 1:35 PM

Hmmm. I'm chewing on this one. For one thing, the Kwik Sew pattern does have a dart, but it's not stitched (look at the diagonal fold in the front on the yellow dress). And you're right--it is more fitted than most Kwik Sew patterns. The sleeves are set higher, and the bust area isn't as full as most KS'.

What I'm chewing on is your brilliant idea. I really like it, but am uncomfortable with trying to true out the CF, and that what you're doing also changes grainlines below the waist, which I think will look wonky instead of full, which is what I think you want. Why not slash up from the hem on the lower pattern, and spread the amount you've overlapped the upper pattern? That way, your grainlines remain the same, and you get the fullness you want below your waist. I don't know if my way of thinking is accurate either, but to me I think it's the way to go if you want extra fullness at some point from the bust to the hem.

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Nancy K
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In reply to tourist <<


Date: 6/17/12 2:19 PM

This pattern is for knits and you want to make it in a woven? There are a lot of patterns out there that would fill your needs more easily than this one. Secondly close fitting refers to the amount of ease at the bust only.
You can get away with a lot fewer fitting seams and darts in a knit than you can in a woven. The darting is there, it's just not sewn.
Don't reinvent the wheel patterns are cheap and plentiful, certainly worth less than your time

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tourist
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Date: 6/17/12 8:04 PM

Thanks Nancy and Miss Fairchild. I should have specified that this is for a Latin ballroom dress and while the owner doesn't want the skin tight, body baring style we see on the younger gals, it does have to fit close to the body. The non-sewn darts would need to be sewn in. The fabric is a knit - very stretchy in one direction and only moderately stretchy the other way. Perhaps technically only a two way stretch, but enough to work, I think ( hope).

Nancy - I am getting so used to the idea of morphing, frankenpatterning and just winging it, I am beginning to be frustrated by pattern hunting and never able to find the perfect pattern within a few quick searches. I maybe have to spend more time poring over the patterns or learn proper pattern making techniques.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

tinflutterby
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Date: 6/18/12 2:42 AM

I've never had good luck with seams up the center of a draped neckline in any fabric. Would your client accept a empire seam. Then you can separate the bust fit from the skirt which could have 4+ gores to create the fit and flare. I have also sewn a draped "collar" into a princess seamed bodice. The drape covers the seam but I think the empire is a better line.

tourist
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In reply to tinflutterby <<


Date: 6/18/12 9:41 AM

Thanks tinflutterby - last night I gave up the idea of having it fitted and decided it can be a bit "blousey." Heck, it works for Natalie Paramonov so it can work for my friend, right?

Here is the latest photo.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

diane s
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Date: 6/18/12 4:36 PM

I once read an article about a costume maker that made outfits for Olympic skaters. She made all her muslins in a woven, made sure it was very snug fitting and then cut it out of a knit. I tried that idea with a baton twirling costume with an empire bodice and a drape in the back. It was a vintage pattern suitable for wovens that was quite fitted. I used stretch velvet for the costume and at the empire seam sewed it to a leotard bottom. It came out perfect.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

tourist
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 6/19/12 10:01 AM

diane - that is interesting! I certainly will do a woven to "tissue fit" with, as fitting with actual tissue or with the plastic sheets I use for pattern tracing to be a real pain.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

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