hazelnut
 Beginner USA Member since 1/7/09 Posts: 2286 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 6/17/12 4:38 PM The topic title and description really says its all regarding both tops and bottoms - particularly the side seams. I'm one of those people who is always curious as to the reasoning behind why we do something a certain way. It helps me understand things better - and also whether or not I can break the rule in certain circumstances, and if I do break it, what will the consequences be. Thanks! :) |
Ann B.
 Advanced Beginner MA USA Member since 4/20/02 Posts: 871 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 6/17/12 5:05 PM I was told by a sewing guru at an Expo seminar to sew "with the grain". She likened it to petting a cat, sew so the fibers perpendicular to the raw edge fold down into the fabric yet to go under the presser foot.
Clear as mud? To make it more complicated this expert might even change direction within a seam if I remember correctly. Hopefully someone else remembers better and chimes in. I try to do the first, but never do the second. Also I never sew such complex or picky stuff. |
Nancy K
 
Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7587 |
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Date: 6/17/12 5:06 PM Because you want the grainline to be perpendicular to the floor and , this is especially important in longer items, like pants or something that you are matching. If there is shifting(which pulls it off grain) it's better to cut it off at the top of the seam. The other issue is that when matching you can't match above a dart so everything below the dart needs to match and again if the seam shifts its more important for the bottom to match up. You can eliminate shifting (the feed dogs pull the under layer at a slightly faster rate that the top piece follows along) by one, basting by hand, and or using a walking foot. In most things just start from the bottom. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com |
stirwatersblue
Intermediate KS USA Member since 12/13/08 Posts: 2471 |
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 6 members like this. Date: 6/17/12 6:07 PM I don't think I've ever done this (I start from whatever edge is handy, and go from there). But I definitely do the second--if you've ever done something like sewn trim to belting, reached the end and just swiveled round... and ended up with a twisted belt, it will make sense. Well, if not make *sense,* at least you'll have learned why not to do it again! ------ ~Gem in the prairie |
solveg
 Beginner MN USA Member since 2/16/12 Posts: 366 |
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 1 member likes this. Date: 6/17/12 6:38 PM I did not know this! Thanks for posting the question. |
Karla Kizer
 
 Advanced FL USA Member since 4/8/02 Posts: 6989 |
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 2 members like this. Date: 6/17/12 6:40 PM Here's a blog entry (with pictures) that explained it for me: GF "There are No Hard and Fast Rules..." ------ “Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.
Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?
Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
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hazelnut
 Beginner USA Member since 1/7/09 Posts: 2286 |
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Date: 6/17/12 6:57 PM Ann, Sewing side seams with the grain makes sense.... but wouldn't the grain be both up and down (assuming you cut your pieces with the length of the grain)? How would sewing with grainline alone make a difference in which direction to stitch, starting frin bottom to top or top to bottom then? Quote: To make it more complicated this expert might even change direction within a seam if I remember correctly Boy, I really don't understand this one? That's way beyond my skill and pay grade. lol But thanks, that is very interesting! I had never heard of it.
Quote: If there is shifting(which pulls it off grain) it's better to cut it off at the top of the seam. The other issue is that when matching you can't match above a dart so everything below the dart needs to match and again if the seam shifts its more important for the bottom to match up.
Nancy, This makes sense. I wasn't thinking of the shifting, nor the matching, esp above/below a dart. My original thinking was that it would be easier to trim and even at the hems, rather than the top portion of the clothing. I'm currently *still* working on my KS pants muslin, ripping the side seams for the 3rd (and final as far as I'm concerned, regardless of the outcome) time! The side pockets are giving me an *issue* and I was thinking it might be easier from the top down. It is a mini-check (plaid) so I will continue stitching "bottoms up". I can now understand why it's suggested to do it in this order. :)
Stirs, I haven't sewn trim to anything, but I think I can picture what you are talking about, and how the fabric could twist if you make a u-turn stitching on a long, thin piece!
Thanks, ladies, for the explanations. They are very informative, hopefully not only to me, but to others who may have wondered about this too!  |
hazelnut
 Beginner USA Member since 1/7/09 Posts: 2286 |
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In reply to Karla Kizer <<
Date: 6/17/12 6:59 PM I'm off to check out your link...Thanks Karla!
I'm back, wow, you can really see how much the fabric shifted on the one skirt mock-up, not to mention the rippling! Well, ok then, I will continue to sew using the "bottoms up" rule/instruction - and thanks to everyone I now have a much better understanding as to why I'm doing it!  -- Edited on 6/17/12 7:11 PM -- |
threaddy
 Advanced WY USA Member since 4/22/09 Posts: 2309 |
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In reply to Karla Kizer <<
Date: 6/17/12 7:09 PM Don't mean to hijack this thread...as I actually have saved it in my topic tracker and find this to be fabulous info...I just sew any old way...always away from the point that I want to match exactly...but now I have more to think about
KARLA where have you been !!! I actually was thinking about you today even! I was posting the recipe for my window washing stuff and it is in the thread talking about brown spots on stainless...almost TWO years ago...and you said "Advancing years have left something similar on my arms...and I have never been placed in the dishwasher". Erma Bombeck humor...I have missed you terribly! ------ "The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Bernina vintage and embroidery serger 234 and BLcoverstitch |
threaddy
 Advanced WY USA Member since 4/22/09 Posts: 2309 |
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Date: 6/17/12 7:30 PM Sorry hazelnut...we'll get back to business in a minute....Karla...do you remember the bamboo topic...you said
"So my fabric choices are environmentally damaging. What do you imagine the sight of me naked would do for mankind."
Three years later and I am still bursting out laughing at that one!!!!
From the buffalo's butt up ------ "The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Bernina vintage and embroidery serger 234 and BLcoverstitch |