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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Bust Circle ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Bust Circle
How big is it?
KathleenNW

KathleenNW  Friend of PR
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WA USA
Member since 5/20/06
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Date: 6/18/12 1:14 PM

I hear a lot about the "bust circle", but I don't think I've ever heard how big it should be. Does it matter what the dart intake is (the cup size)?

Like ?
A = 2"
B = 2 1/2"
C = 3"
etc., etc....

Thank you

novicesewist
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novicesewist  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/18/12 1:18 PM

Let me preface by saying that I'm not an expert. I just happened to be watching Peggy Sagers drafting video last night, and I think I remember her saying that the bust circle in smaller sizes (under 14) was a radius of 1.5 inches. Then in the larger sizes the diameter was 2.5 inches, up to a certain size, then it went up an inch per size (unfortunately, I do not remember at what size the 2.5 inch radius changed to another inch per size) So, radius of 1.5 inches equals circle of 3 inches across, and 2.5 inch radius would equal circle 5 inches across.
Hopefully that will give you a place to start.
Judy

KathleenNW

KathleenNW  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/18/12 1:34 PM

Thank you for the reference. I have her DVD, so I just watched a part of it that talks about the bust circle.

8 - 12 1 1/2" radius
14 - 18 2 1/2" radius
18 = 2-1/2" + 1"
20 -> 2-1/2" + 2", and so on.

It seems strange to me that it isn't also based on dart size. BUT, maybe the size of the dart determines how far into the bust circle the dart goes.

Can anyone explain this further?

Thank you
-- Edited on 6/18/12 1:36 PM --

wendyrb
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Date: 6/18/12 1:55 PM

Kathleen, these are very useful guidelines. Thanks for sharing.

I recently took Sarah Veblen's class here- Fun with Fitting Darts. Her new book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting shows an approach I see others post about here. The pattern dart is a starting point. Trace off a muslin of it and mark the seam lines to make a pin basted muslin, especially the dart. When fitting it, you can release the dart easily to custom fit it to your particular shape. We all have fullness and indents that are uniquely our own. Most of us benefit from re-draping the dart on our bodies. Shift the dart angle/placement, depth of fold and length to a bust circle until it is right for you. You can also slash open the muslin to either remove fullness for a small bust, or add space for a fuller bust.

Unless you are just like the pattern, it's worthwhile to become familar with fitting yourself. Or, find a fitting buddy better still! HTH.

------
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to KathleenNW <<


Date: 6/19/12 1:44 AM

In reading the numbers, I'd guess it was due to the size of dart or cup size. But other designers use a different size bust circle. For example, I believe Glenda Sparling uses a 1" bust circle, no matter your size. Peggy's reference of 3" was very strange to me, but it does make sense when you think of it visually.

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KathleenNW

KathleenNW  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/19/12 9:22 AM

One thing is becoming very clear. There are as many 'rules' and 'standards' as there are pattern designers.

It was a lot easier in Home Ec (1965 - 1969when you only learned one method, however, it's a lot more interesting now with the internet, but a lot more confusing.

This is such a great website. Lots of interesting converdations.

hazelnut
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Date: 6/19/12 2:15 PM

I've never heard of a "bust circle". Could someone please explain exactly what it is and how it's used, and for what purpose? Thanks

lca
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Date: 6/19/12 3:36 PM

Imagine a circle around the bust appex. The size of the circle is dependent upon the above criteria. The end of a dart should come somewhere within this circle. HTH.

GlButterfly

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In reply to hazelnut <<
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Date: 6/19/12 5:19 PM

The larger the bust, the farther away the point of the dart needs to be. Some say as short as 1/2" for the smallest cup sizes. Because it's quicker to type, let's use 1" as an example (which might be a B cup). A dart can begin from almost any edge. We would still need to end it with our 1" (in this example.) If you were to make dots around the apex of the bust, each 1" away (the radius) and connect them, you would have a circle! That's where the circle comes from.

There are factors which may change the radius; this is a guide.

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hazelnut
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Date: 6/19/12 7:42 PM

Ica and GL, thank you for the explanation - this is the first time I've read this term. This will be another helpful guide in determining where to end a bust dart, particularly when drafting them from scratch during a FBA.

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