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Where to line it all up
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 6/20/12 7:33 PM

I've been morphing and butchering a capri pattern for about 2 weeks now. I trace my patterns, so as not to use the original tissue. After all this engineering, I wanted to see just how far from the "original" pattern piece, I have come. When I lay the back or front of the pattern over it's "original" corresponding piece, where to I line them up? Do I match hems to hems or crotch to crotch, waist to waist?
-- Edited on 6/20/12 7:33 PM --

jannw
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jannw  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink <<
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Date: 6/20/12 8:41 PM

For pants, I like to do that crotch to crotch, kind of a midpoint..then I can see where I am. Usually higher in the back, wider in the waist, narrower in the thigh. Once I was almost exactly two sizes less than the original.
It's quite interesting to see where your body deviates from the listed measurements.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to jannw <<
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Date: 6/21/12 7:53 AM

jannw, thank you. I've done so much tweaking to these capris I just wanted to make sure I hadn't gone off the deep end. I'm making a final muslin today. If this doesn't work, I have to start from the beginning again I'm hoping to get a least one pair done before we leave for Vegas this weekend...I'm all for last minute sewing, it helps calm my nerves

Lizz
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Date: 6/21/12 9:08 AM

I always start every tracing by copying the grain arrow EXACTLY as printed. Then when I go back to compare the new to the old, I match grain arrows and can instantly see any changes that I have made. Because going off grain can cause my best intentions to go wonky it is essential that that line be transferred anyway.

BTW, I also trace all my patterns. Too many alterations to trust tissue to hold up. Thank God for STP!!

-- Edited on 6/21/12 9:22 AM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Lizz <<


Date: 6/21/12 11:41 AM

Lizz I also line up my grain arrows, which more likely than not, have also had to be redrawn because I change the legs on my alterations. But what I was wondering is, after chopping off an inch or so at the waist line, moving the back leg to the center, bringing up the butt(kind of like a flat butt thing to remove under butt wrinkles), working with the crotch points and scooping, then adding back a bit to the upper sides for hip fluff, where to I actually line my altered piece with it's original counterpart? Crotch, hem? I know there is a thread happening now about stitching from the "bottom up or the top down". One theme I'm seeing in that thread, is having the hems even. Is this where i would line up my pattern pieces?

sewsally
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Date: 6/21/12 11:57 AM

The hip line. That should be level to the floor and not change.
The grain line is perpendicular to the hip line.

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/21/12 12:45 PM

interesting are you going to post pics JTink? would love to see your capris.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to allycovey <<


Date: 6/22/12 10:56 PM

I'll try and get them posted in the next few weeks. We are heading out to Vegas next week, so won't be near the computer for a while. I got them pretty much where I like them. Still have a small 2 inch area at the butt curve that doesn't feel like it's sitting right. If I keep scooping, I just know I'm going to throw everything off again

SewSally, I will have to remember to mark my hip line on the traced piece. I have never done that.

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