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anti-wool patterns
why?
solveg
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solveg  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/22/12 4:45 PM

Why don't the following patterns allow wool? Is it only because there are no lining instructions? I know there's always a reason, but...

also, why does vogue say a pattern is suitable for "tweed"? Isn't that just a type of wool?
ks3558 ks3202 ks3392 3293
-- Edited on 6/22/12 4:46 PM --
-- Edited on 6/22/12 6:30 PM --

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 6/22/12 7:17 PM

Do they explicitly state it? I would use wool, can't see the problem there

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solveg
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Date: 6/22/12 7:38 PM

No, they don't say it, but I'm such a noob I figured that there had to be a reason they didn't* mention it. I've been reading on the board about pleats that wouldn't pleat, and just general wishing that they had not used a certain fabric. I just want to know that if it's a wadder, it's because of something I did wrong, not that I didn't have a chance at success from the get-go.

The tweed thing I think I figured out as they want a loose weave, so it has less body, I guess.

diane s
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Date: 6/22/12 8:35 PM

some of the patterns mention fibers, but another mentions weaves, including crepe and gabardine, which come in wool.

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tlmck3
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tlmck3
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Date: 6/22/12 8:52 PM

Gabardine is a wool weave. Crepe is a weave that can also be woolen. I see those as recommended fabrics on most of the patterns you posted.

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NhiHuynh
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 6/22/12 8:54 PM

I don't read the fabric recommendations on the envelop. I also don't know the weave or fiber for 90% of my fabric stash. So even if I read the back of the envelop it would still do me no good. The way that I pair up the two is by understanding what the pattern needs are and which fabrics have those properties. Your example of the pleats... If the garment needs to be pleated, try to pleat a swatch of fabric. If it doesn't look the way you want it to, leave that fabric for another project and try a different fabric. Or depending on the style you can change the plates to gathers or topstitch them into submission. Don't be afraid of coloring outside the lines. If you're unsure, do what you just did and post the pattern and fabric and see what the peanut gallery has to say.

Going back to your original question. I think part of the confusion is fiber vs weave. Wool is a fiber/content. Tweed is a weave. You can have a wool blend tweed, cotton blend tweed, rayon tweed. Manhattanfabrics.com is a good site to help you understand fiber and weaves. You'll see that there are so many types of fabrics out there that patterns companies can't possibly list them all.

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solveg
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Date: 6/22/12 9:37 PM

Thanks, guys! I guess I have to buckle down and just learn some of this. Now that you mention it, I KNEW that the word "wool" went before gabardine, but I have no idea what a gabardine is. I did look up "faille", though, and am convinced I have never seen it before in my life.

I promise I will color outside the lines...when I add the word "advanced" in front of "beginner" under my name. LOLOL


-- Edited on 6/22/12 9:37 PM --

sfshaza
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 6/22/12 10:11 PM

Solveg, I strongly recommend you buy Fabric Savvy. There is also a series of books about fibers, one on wool, one on silk, etc. Those are excellent, and include swatches, but are pricey.

Gabardine is a weave. It can be wool, it can be poly. Gabardine is notorious as a more "difficult" fabric to work with. I would not recommend it right out of the gate. :)

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nancy2001
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 6/22/12 10:15 PM

I think it's important not to take the pattern company recommendations for anything too seriously. By the time you're an advanced beginner, you'll know far more about many things than the pattern companies do. By the time you're an intermediate, you'll barely glance at the instructions. By the time you're advanced, you might not even use patterns any more.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

heathergwo
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Date: 6/23/12 0:06 AM

I agree with a few of the above posters. Go with your gut! Look at the pattern pictures, what the finished garment is supposed to look like and pick a fabric that you think will work. The only time you should pay attention is when it is for knits only. It is possible to exchange a woven for a knit (and vice versa), but I don't think that's something you want to have to worry about right away.

I have yet to really pay attention to what the pattern recomendations are and I haven't had any major problems yet and I'm still a beginner with no special fabric knowledge. I figure as long as you've been buying clothes for yourself for a portion of your life, you know enough to figure out what will most likely work and what won't.

As for learning about fabrics, I think it's a HUGE challenge and can take a lot of time and effort and then you still can't possibly know about them all. There are SO SO SO many types and mixes, etc. It's just too much. BUT, I would HIGHLY recommend this series I just bought. It's not cheap, but it's so very cool and worth the $$. It's called All About Cottons/All About Silk/All About Wool. You can purchase each book separately or all together. If you buy directly from the publisher (Rain City Publishing) you get a discount from their website. It was like $160 or something for all 3 books together, but it covers SO much and you get little swatches for all the types of fabric that you can actually FEEL and refer back to over and over again!

I also bought an accompanying book called "Fabric Sewing Guide" by Claire Shaeffer which many people here recommended. I think between those references, I should have enough material to teach me about fabrics for quite some time!

HTH!

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Singer Curvy 8763
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