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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting dress bodice- Vogue 8469 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting dress bodice- Vogue 8469
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pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 6/23/12 5:21 AM

Hi experts of pattern review!
You might remember me from the epic topic about fitting my first top.... I have finished it and will update with a picture when I have one to show, lol.
Anyway, onto the next challenge! Vogue 8469
(lol at my dopey face in this pic)

The bodice is interesting, the horizontal seams are slanted. It's designed for the waist seam to hit the waist at the centre back, but be higher by a few centimetres at the front.
Anyway, mine was about 4cm below my waist at the back!
But I didn't want to take it all out from the lengthen/shorten line on the midriff pieces, because I think that would destroy the style of the dress. The midriff would be so small it wouldn't have a good balance...
Here I sewed out two tucks of 2cm. One in the midriff, and one in the bodice.

Okay, this is pretty boring stuff right? I'm growing in confidence so I think I did this bit okay.

But here is something I wanted to check with you guys. See the wrinkles on the back armholes? My fitting book said you could rotate that into a shoulder dart. Here is mine.
I released the shoulder seam and pushed the excess into a dart, like the book said. Fancy right?
It didn't say what the pattern work was though. Eep! So I kinda made it up. Please let me know if this is even remotely right, haha. :)



I slashed two lines, and rotated the wedge to open up the shoulder seam to the width of the dart. Then I just redrew the armhole seam where it was before. Am I right? I'd feel so proud if I was, lol!

I made a few other small changes too.
I pinned out a bunch of excess along the back seam. (about 2cm at base of waist).
I am taking in the side seams at the armholes as they gape outwards.
I am planning to do a small bust adjustment also.

Thanks for looking and for your input!
-- Edited on 6/23/12 5:21 AM --

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

SVN
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SVN
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Date: 6/23/12 2:24 PM

When you say wrinkles at the armhole, do you mean the extra fabric at the side seam? Can't you just take the dart at the side seam? i.e., sew the side seam deeper from the underarm, following the contour of your body?

Also, I don't think you've understood the rotating of darts. First you need to make a dart where the actual excess is, then rotate that dart by drawing lines to a centre point, slashing at shoulder and physically rotating the paper. You do this on the pattern, not on the muslin.

But seriously, you don't need this, just take the bodice -which is too big for you - in at the side seams. And next time start with a smaller size.
-- Edited on 6/23/12 2:27 PM --

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 6/23/12 5:26 PM

The excess I'm talking about that I put into a dart, is on the sides of the armholes. On the sleeve side you can see that excess drooping in diagonal wrinkles. On the other side you can see the faint bulge up nearer the shoulder (it was more easy to see IRL).
I'm not crazy, lol. It was in the book!
I addressed the gaping at the bottom of the armhole by taking in the side seam, yes.

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

a7yrstitch
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In reply to pinkcatflower <<
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Date: 6/23/12 5:51 PM

Observing quietly here as I just viewed that same extra added bunch of fabric on a picture of a larger sized garment. My thought when seeing pictures of both garments was, 'What's up with that?'. In both cases a simple side seam adjustment would not be the remedy.

Lifting the fabric at the shoulder up and in toward the center back looks like it is pulling the fabric where it should have been in the first place.

It reminds me that way back when a modest amount of money could buy a well made dress that some of my dresses did have back shoulder darts. Hmm.....

No input here, just enjoying the luxury of watching you think your way through to a very good fit. Thank you for sharing.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

SVN
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In reply to pinkcatflower <<
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Date: 6/23/12 10:57 PM

Oh, do you mean the slight gaping at the armhole? You might be able to get rid of that by taking in at the side seams or at the shoulder seam.
I think I can see now what you did with the pattern work. It looks sort of right, but I would have drawn the dart into a more central point at the shoulder blade and drawn the should dart line down to meet it... you then shorten the shoulder dart after the rotation. While that is what I've been taught to do, I'm not sure yours is wrong, so if it seems to work, go with it.
You should try to figure out what is causing the gaping. If your shoulders slope, then you need to pinch out the shoulder seam. If your shoulder blades stick out or you have a rounded upper back, then you fix the gaping by adding length in that area.

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 6/23/12 11:27 PM

Okay, so what I'm thinking is, my paper pattern alteration is probably wrong- I'm going to experiment on some paper.
SVN I think you're right when you say I first must create the dart then rotate. So I'm going to have a go at that. (Wish the book would have told me how, oh well!)

About my method of taking out the gape-you mentioned taking it out along the shoulder seam. The book actually mentions you could do this (though they seem to think adding the dart is best?). I might experiment some more and I might be able to get away without a dart. But adding a dart sure would be fancy! lol

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

pinkcatflower
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Date: 6/28/12 6:53 AM

Okay, so first- I'm glad I made this topic. I think tapering the shoulder seams is a more effective solution than the wacky dart I put in I noticed the front had slight wrinkles near shoulder seam too. Of course, it must be caused by sloping shoulders! So this fixed both front and back!
Anyway, of course I have a million more questions.
I took 1cm out of each shoulder (tapered to nothing at neckline seam). I noticed this affected how my pattern fit together.
See these two pics (before and after)


I also recalled reading that certain seams were supposed to be at right angles. Like here. This is called truing the patten I believe?
Anyway, I don't know how to true it without seeming to change the seam line a lot.
Here is my picture. The blue line is the new bottom of the armhole (I have to lower it to match the tapered shoulder seam.)
The red line is how I figure I would have to cut it to get these right angle intersections. It looks like it's taken about 1cm extra out of the armhole shape.


I seriously scoured the internet hoping to find someone explaining this but couldn't find anything of use. I also couldn't find anything in my fitting book :(

Who knows, maybe this shape of armhole would be an improvement. But I know very little about armholes.
Looking at the pics of me wearing it, it looks like there are some vertical folds near my armholes- maybe there is excess width there that this adjustment would address? Gosh I don't know...

I hope this explains what I'm talking about... I go to a lot of effort to try and make sure people can help me easily!

Thanks for your time.

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

creative1
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Date: 6/28/12 12:17 PM

A much easier ( and the one I use) way to to get a proper fit is to start with the garment rather than the paper pattern. Wrinkles will tell you how much and where to pin to get a smooth fit. And then you transfer what you pin out onto you pattern pieces.

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 6/28/12 6:20 PM

creative1, that's what I am doing. I am analysing the fit of the test garment and pinning out wrinkles, and then attempting to transfer those changes onto the pattern. I just want to know how to make my pattern "true".
As in the link I had in my previous post:
"One of the most basic principles of pattern drafting is maintaining a 90 degree angle at strategic seam line intersections."

That's what I'm trying to do... I'm just a bit confused on it. If you follow the link you will see she alters the pattern and "trues" it. Hope someone can shed some light on this!

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

creative1
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In reply to pinkcatflower <<


Date: 6/28/12 10:32 PM

After you fix all the wrinkles and you are satisfied, you draw the line of the armhole where you want it to be while standing in front of the mirror (also the waist line and so on), and then transfer it - I just cut my muslin along all seams and darts and superimpose it onto the paper pattern.
The final step - try to make the length of your armhole the same as of the pattern, to keep the original sleeve ( of course, if you like the shape and width of it). The same applies to the neck opening, if there is the collar. Good luck

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