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Forum > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > Brother Coverstitch will NOT sew over swimwear elastic ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Brother Coverstitch will NOT sew over swimwear elastic
auragone
auragone
Member since 3/6/09
Posts: 41
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Date: 6/25/12 1:03 AM

I am trying to sew my first swimsuit and am finding that both my serger and coverstitch (both brothers) do not want to play with the swimwear elastic. I can't serge it on without having the looper threads really close togehter (the fabric doesn't feed through smoothly), so I ended up zigzagging it on.

But now I want to finish the waistband and leg openings on my coverstitch and it won't do it. As in, every.single.time the fabric gets pulled into the machine. I thought I'd try the tissue paper trick like I do on my sewing machine but same issue. The stitches are super tiny and it just won't go. I put in brand new stretch 90/14 needles, have thread nets, etc. I tested a scrap without elastic and the stitches look great. With elastic - yowza.

It seems crazy to me that I'll probably end up sewing 80% of my swimwear on my machine, not my serger and coverstitch. Help!

biochemistress

biochemistress  Friend of PR
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Virginia USA
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Date: 6/25/12 7:21 AM

Have you double checked your stitch length and can you lower the presser foot pressure? By the time you're putting two layers of lycra and elastic in it, it's fairly thick. I would lower the pressure and change the stitch length to at least 3, as well as use wooly nylon in the looper.

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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In reply to auragone <<


Date: 6/25/12 8:08 AM

your brother 2340. I had one of those and loved it. Remember that machine can take standard sewing machine needle. you might need to change it to sharp or stretch needle. use a size 9 or 10 needles they won't leave big hole. But find one that will work best. test first before you sew the swim suit.

------
Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

edster
edster
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Oregon USA
Member since 2/19/10
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In reply to auragone <<
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Date: 6/26/12 1:13 AM

I agree with what everyone else has said - smaller needle size, lower pressure, longer stitch, wooly nylon - those should all help a lot.

When you are coverstitching over serged seams it may help to clip the seam:
http://gigisews.blogspot.com/2006/06/coverstitching-over-serged-seams.html

This worked for me in a couple of tests I conducted this afternoon with 2 layers of nylon/lycra, elastic, and a folded over serged seam. In fact the results were amazing! I was wary of clipping through all the threads (except for the left needle), but I subjected my test swatch to as much abuse as I could manage and the threads that I had cut showed no sign of loosening or unraveling.

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Betakin
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Betakin
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In reply to auragone <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:48 AM

I use Schmetz ELx705 needles in both my regular basic serger and my combo coverhem model and don't have problems..have you tried the EL needles?

Rosews13
Rosews13  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 6/26/12 11:45 AM

The stretch needles may not be right for the elastic. You have to puncture the elastic. I would try a universal. I also always lay my elastic on top of the lycra when serging it onto the leg, arm and neck openings. I have made hundreds of leotards over the years for dance studios and had no trouble this way. I never had a coverstitch so can't advise on that one.

creative1
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creative1
Intermediate
International AUSTRALIA
Member since 1/25/06
Posts: 526
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In reply to auragone <<


Date: 6/28/12 12:35 PM

Quote:
The stitches are super tiny and it just won't go

This tells me that the current settings on your machine do not allow the foot to grab the fabric and pull it to the back of the foot. You need to experiment with your foot pressure (and, perhaps needle and thread too) to get the fabric going. Try first to increase the foot pressure, and if it fails, decrease it, as it all depends on a particular situation.
In my home a have a folder with all settings for many fabrics, when i need coverstitch, I just copy the settings,and voile! But sorry to say, I can't give you more info, as I am on holiday right now. Wish you luck
Mrs.Moos
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Mrs.Moos  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/12 1:57 AM

I had to reduce presser foot pressure on my serger to do swimwear elastic. My Janome CP1000 did the c/sing just fine.

karsewknit
karsewknit
Member since 11/21/11
Posts: 1
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In reply to edster <<


Date: 7/9/12 10:57 AM

Your reply is very helpful to me! I've been struggling with stitching over the lumpy seams and the clipping technique should solve my issue!

Lizziebd
Lizziebd
Member since 7/8/12
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Date: 7/14/12 4:36 PM

I cannot get mine sew over elastic either. I am using a a standard braided elastic and Lycra dance fabric. The fabric slides through, no problem, but just can't "catch" the looper. I have tried shorter, longer stitch length, more, less pressure, next I'm headed to the store for new needles.

I am new to coverstitch but have had a serger for awhile - I'm just trying to keep my patience, arrrgggh!!

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