Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Gaping armhole corrected - what about the sleeve ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Gaping armhole corrected - what about the sleeve ?
RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/25/12 12:00 PM

I made a wearable muslin of a New Look knit top (I can't find the number right now, will edit later), a boat-neck tee with or without sleeves. I muslined the sleeveless version.

The muslin was OK with just a little gaping at the front armhole. I darted it, then rotated the dart into the side seam, but now I'd like to add the sleeves.

How do I modify the sleeve cap to mirror the alteration I did on the armhole ?

I know I should use a smaller size and do a FBA, but it's a pattern from the Simplicity magazine and I already use the smallest size they offer.

TIA !

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2152
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/25/12 5:23 PM

Slash and overlap the sleeve cap until you get the circumference down to an amount that you can ease into the armscye?

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Login to reply to this post

In reply to RoseFromThule <<


Date: 6/25/12 8:29 PM

There are many ways to fix this; one's even a tip here on PR, but I can't remember the title nor the name of the poster; Gigi Louis, maybe? But here are a couple ways I know:
1) Place a dart in the sleeve cap between the front notch and the shoulder dot. The dart should be the amount of the dart you rotated. Or you can make several tiny darts in the same area; the total of which is the amount you rotated out of the armscye. This last suggestion helps the pattern to lay flatter.
2) You can redraft the sleeve cap so the front is a little shorter by raising the front underarm seamline the amount you rotated in the armscye. Use a French curve to make your curve. For example, let's say your dart is 5/8" deep. Make a mark at the front underarm seamline 5/8" above the original and redraw the front curve, tapering it into the original line, somewhere before the shoulder dot.
3) Draw a horizontal line across the sleeve cap, just above the notches. The line should end at your seamline. Somewhere above this horizontal line, draw another line at an angle (45 degrees is okay), coming off the horizontal line and ending at the cutting line on the pattern. Slash this line, to the horizontal line, and overlap the amount of the dart.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

JEF
starstarstar
JEF  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 7/27/05
Posts: 2568
Board Moderator
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/25/12 11:54 PM

Coincidentally, thus was a question Peggy Sagers answered in her webcast tonight with a demo of altering the sleeve. If you go to Silhoutte Patterns, the webcast should be up t'row.

JEF

------
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:40 AM

Thanks !

I must add that there seems to be a lot of ease on this sleevecaps so I'll have to shave it some anyway.

1/ That was what came to mind first. But then, how do I "absorbe" the fullness created by the dart on the pattern ? I have the same question for method 3. Can I just smooth the paper out ?

2/ Does that means that the underarm seam line will be longer on the front than on the back ? Or should I modify the back sleeve cap as well a tiny bit ?


-- Edited on 6/26/12 7:41 AM --

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:40 AM

Quote: LauraTS
Slash and overlap the sleeve cap until you get the circumference down to an amount that you can ease into the armscye?

That was my first idea, but I wondered whether there is a more orthodox method :)

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 437
Login to reply to this post

In reply to JEF <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:42 AM

Quote: JEF
Coincidentally, thus was a question Peggy Sagers answered in her webcast tonight with a demo of altering the sleeve. If you go to Silhoutte Patterns, the webcast should be up t'row.



JEF

Thanks ! I'll have a look at it !

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Gaping armhole corrected - what about the sleeve ?

Merchants on PR
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

Online Sewing Classes
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Burda 7798
photo
Review by Graca on 4/19/12
Read Review

HANDBAG CONSTRUCTION - A CD Book By Kenneth King
HANDBAG CONSTRUCTION - A CD Book By Kenneth King

Details
Price: $24.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jamie Christina Pretty Ditty Apron Pattern (JC303PD)
Jamie Christina Pretty Ditty Apron Pattern (JC303PD)

Details
Price: $12.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Maia Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 12 mo -8 years )
Peek-A Boo Maia Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 12 mo -8 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Duck Slippers Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )
Peek-A Boo Duck Slippers Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 5794
photo
Review by Sandi S on 10/15/11
Read Review

Burda 7972 Pattern
Burda 7972 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 8321 Pattern
Burda 8321 Pattern

Details
Price: $14.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN