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Forum > Fitting Woes > Gaping armhole corrected - what about the sleeve ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Gaping armhole corrected - what about the sleeve ?
RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 6/25/12 12:00 PM

I made a wearable muslin of a New Look knit top (I can't find the number right now, will edit later), a boat-neck tee with or without sleeves. I muslined the sleeveless version.

The muslin was OK with just a little gaping at the front armhole. I darted it, then rotated the dart into the side seam, but now I'd like to add the sleeves.

How do I modify the sleeve cap to mirror the alteration I did on the armhole ?

I know I should use a smaller size and do a FBA, but it's a pattern from the Simplicity magazine and I already use the smallest size they offer.

TIA !

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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/25/12 5:23 PM

Slash and overlap the sleeve cap until you get the circumference down to an amount that you can ease into the armscye?

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to RoseFromThule <<


Date: 6/25/12 8:29 PM

There are many ways to fix this; one's even a tip here on PR, but I can't remember the title nor the name of the poster; Gigi Louis, maybe? But here are a couple ways I know:
1) Place a dart in the sleeve cap between the front notch and the shoulder dot. The dart should be the amount of the dart you rotated. Or you can make several tiny darts in the same area; the total of which is the amount you rotated out of the armscye. This last suggestion helps the pattern to lay flatter.
2) You can redraft the sleeve cap so the front is a little shorter by raising the front underarm seamline the amount you rotated in the armscye. Use a French curve to make your curve. For example, let's say your dart is 5/8" deep. Make a mark at the front underarm seamline 5/8" above the original and redraw the front curve, tapering it into the original line, somewhere before the shoulder dot.
3) Draw a horizontal line across the sleeve cap, just above the notches. The line should end at your seamline. Somewhere above this horizontal line, draw another line at an angle (45 degrees is okay), coming off the horizontal line and ending at the cutting line on the pattern. Slash this line, to the horizontal line, and overlap the amount of the dart.

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JEF
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Date: 6/25/12 11:54 PM

Coincidentally, thus was a question Peggy Sagers answered in her webcast tonight with a demo of altering the sleeve. If you go to Silhoutte Patterns, the webcast should be up t'row.

JEF

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RoseFromThule
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:40 AM

Thanks !

I must add that there seems to be a lot of ease on this sleevecaps so I'll have to shave it some anyway.

1/ That was what came to mind first. But then, how do I "absorbe" the fullness created by the dart on the pattern ? I have the same question for method 3. Can I just smooth the paper out ?

2/ Does that means that the underarm seam line will be longer on the front than on the back ? Or should I modify the back sleeve cap as well a tiny bit ?


-- Edited on 6/26/12 7:41 AM --

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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:40 AM

Quote: LauraTS
Slash and overlap the sleeve cap until you get the circumference down to an amount that you can ease into the armscye?

That was my first idea, but I wondered whether there is a more orthodox method :)

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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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In reply to JEF <<


Date: 6/26/12 7:42 AM

Quote: JEF
Coincidentally, thus was a question Peggy Sagers answered in her webcast tonight with a demo of altering the sleeve. If you go to Silhoutte Patterns, the webcast should be up t'row.



JEF

Thanks ! I'll have a look at it !

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