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Forum > Fitting Woes > Wrinkles above bust? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Wrinkles above bust?
McCalls 6076 - shoulder princess
KatieA

KatieA
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Date: 6/26/12 12:43 PM

OK, so I'm making
McCalls 6076, view A, after a disaster on a Hot Patterns Princess shirt. I was hoping to use the fabric from that shirt but the pieces are a little different.

I followed their instructions for my FBA, broad back, and added a little more to the waist and took off a little from the hips. Then because I'd overdone the FBA, I used the Vogue SBA technique (I think someone recommended it to me on the other thread.) which is to take some off the front centre panel at the bust, it says to grade to about 4" above and below the bust point. Because my other shirt was so horrendously large, doing this caused the side panel to be much too big in proportion, but I only took 1/2" off this time so it is OK

I also removed the extra I had added at the waist, which I may have needed to keep some of.

As you can see, there are various wrinkles!

I am not sure if I still need to take in a little more on the bust?

I think the wrinkle I've marked on the RIGHT (as you look at the picture) and the underarm wrinkles are caused by my huge extra cautious seam allowance at the armhole (I put in 1" seam allowances on a trial garment), so when I clip this they should be OK. I'm not too worried about them. I am pretty sure this has happened before.

I'd like to fix the shoulder wrinkle marked on the L as you look at the picture. It's not quite pointing at the bust, so I wasn't sure it was a bust issue, but could it also be an issue caused by the collar seam being large and unclipped?

Finally there are some diagonal wrinkles over my abdomen. Any suggestions? Let out the front seam a little? Let out at the waist again a little?

Thanks all!



-- Edited on 6/26/12 5:54 PM --

Tizmehr
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Date: 6/26/12 2:31 PM

My first impression is that "the girls" are a bit lower on you than where the shaping is on the shirt.
I'm wondering if some of the shoulder wrinkle is caused by the neck seam allowance and will ease out once you've added the collar and clipped the edge.

lca
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Date: 6/26/12 4:06 PM

Do you have the same diagonal wrinkles in the shoulder area in the back? If so, try picking up the edge of the shoulder seam to see if it is a sloping shoulder issue.

simplystitches
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Date: 6/26/12 4:37 PM

I'm by no means a fit expert but I think your 1" armhole SA's are causing a number of the wrinkles you see. Both the shoulder and armhole wrinkle radiate to the same area, under the arm. It's also pulling a bit tightly right at the armpit area because that extra SA has no where to go so your own armpit is pushing it down and that also is quite possibly what's not allowing the princess seam to fall in the proper place and giving you the wrinkles above the bust. Try frogstitching the ss from under the arm to a few inches down and see if that releases some of the wrinkles. It's an easy enough thing to do before you go looking for all sorts of alterations that may actually not even be needed.

I think some of the diagonal wrinkles in the hip area look like you need to let out that seam a bit from the waist down.

Just my humble opinion.

Debbie

KatieA

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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 6/26/12 5:57 PM

Quote: simplystitches

I think some of the diagonal wrinkles in the hip area look like you need to let out that seam a bit from the waist down.



Just my humble opinion.

Could easily be right. I have a slightly larger waist than hips (or at least, a smaller difference than on most patterns) so tend to let out at the waist and take in a tiny bit at the hips but I could easily have also taken in too much at the hips (or, need to let out but haven't. Can't remember if I actually took in at the hips or not).

PS what's frogstitching? I will look it up of course but I've not heard of it!

-- Edited on 6/26/12 5:59 PM --
KatieA

KatieA
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 6/26/12 5:58 PM

Quote: Tizmehr
My first impression is that "the girls" are a bit lower on you than where the shaping is on the shirt.

Hmm... entirely possible! I will try a different bra before major alterations as that could help!
simplystitches
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In reply to KatieA <<
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Date: 6/26/12 6:25 PM

Frogstitching- rip it rip it

Debbie

sew2006
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In reply to KatieA <<
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Date: 6/26/12 7:24 PM

I would start with the shoulder slope of the garment. It's suprising how many problems get resolved with a shirt hangs right. Threads has a great tutorial where you stand with no shoes aganst the wall and another person traces around your neck and shoulders. If there's extra fabric added to the centre front, neckline, armhole curves it can add it's own challenges.

------
Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

AdaH
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Date: 6/26/12 7:29 PM

First I would not use 1" SA in the armhole area...ever.
Stay stitch the armhole on the stitching line then take off the extra SA. Until you do that you will not know what is going on.



-- Edited on 6/26/12 7:30 PM --

------
Ada

schmammy
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Date: 6/26/12 8:43 PM

Having made this shirt several times, I can share some things I've learned with this pattern.
#1 - getting the bust fullness at the right place in a princess seam is very tricky, I don't care what the experts say! Marking your (not the pattern's) bust points can help some. Wearing the same bra throughout the fitting (and eventual wearing) can make a difference with fuller busts.
#2 - Every time I make this shirt, I have extra fabric (wrinkles across the upper chest). I am usually making a size 20 or so, based on one expert's (thin person) advice to choose the pattern size whose finished measurements match a shirt you already like. I had the opportunity to ask yet another expert (full-sized person) about this recurring issue. She said there's no way I wear a size 20. She said cut a 16 and do the FBA/tapering, etc. So.......when I can pick this one up again for 99 cents, I plan to have a go at that strategy.

That last tidbit makes the most sense to me because I get the best fit in RTW when I can find a 16W. VERY hard to find. There's been some discussion elsewhere about how the vintage patterns that came in "half" sizes offer a better fit for folks in my situation. That's another rabbit trail, however.

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Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

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