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Message Board > Fitting Woes > block fit assesment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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block fit assesment
Please help me asses the fit of my muslin/toile
vondalin
vondalin
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 4/23/11
Posts: 5
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Date: 6/28/12 7:29 AM

Hi All,

Although not a new member to PR this is my first (ever) post on a
this (any) forum, shyness has always prevented me from posting. Having spent the last 2 days trying to resolve my fitting issued I have come to realise no seamstress is an island and would really appreciate some help/advise (reassurance I'm not the worst sewer in the world)

I have always had troubles with fitting, which has meant in the past I have always shied away from sleeves.... but I decided it is time to bite the bullet and create myself a block/sloper pattern and used New Look 6808 as my starting point, I raised the neckline to provide a more sloper-ish shape.
Other adjustments included a 1cm horizontal reduction bellow the armscy to raise the darts to the correct location and reduced the shoulder length by 2.5cm.

I was pretty happy with it until I set on the sleeve and realised I could move my arm I'm not sure if my shoulder adjustment has screwed up the armhole or if maybe the upper back is too tight? and I think I might also need a back full hip adjustment and maybe a slight sway back adjustment too?

Front

Back

Sleeve

side


I would love to hear any advise anyone has to offer.

Thanks
Von


Edited for broken image links
-- Edited on 6/28/12 7:33 AM --

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
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Date: 6/28/12 3:06 PM

Hi Von, this is one of my favorite patterns and I love all the darts for fitting.


Your fit looks really good so far, especially the shoulders and waist. I'd allow for a little more through the bust, and then see if the wrinkles lessen in both front and back. Then I'd reduce the length in back a bit. I know others will have very educated responses-I am just learning fit. Great start!!

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
Beginner
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 11/20/09
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Date: 6/28/12 6:15 PM

I spent ages fitting this pattern as my first exercise in fit. Your looks waaaaay better than my first muslin, haha!
I'm no fitting expert, but here's my 2 cents. Care to hear a beginner's advice? lol. Take it with a grain of salt.
It looks like it is too tight in the bust (tight wrinkles going towards the bust from the shoulder? Make a FBA?
It also looks too tight across the lower back (tight horizontal wrinkles). I wonder if the tightness is making it sit higher, causing it to ride up and make those baggy wrinkles. I see the hem is sitting higher in the back (Mine did this).

I'm sure you'll get this fitting great!

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 558
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Date: 6/28/12 6:43 PM

Yes, you need more room for your bust and across your hips. There is an excess length at the back also. But not bad at all! :)

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

heathergwo
heathergwo  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
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Date: 6/28/12 8:34 PM

I agree... too tight around bust & hips. That SHOULD help with the sleeve fit... try it out and let us know how it goes!!

BTW - WELCOME and glad you finally took your first leap into posting! We are happy to have you and happy to help!!
-- Edited on 6/28/12 8:36 PM --

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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USA
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In reply to vondalin <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 6/28/12 8:59 PM

I'm not sure how tight you want this top, so I'm guessing what needs to be done.
Back view: It looks like you have protruding shoulder blades; at least I can see them on your muslin.
Front view: As to your bust in front, let out the front about 1/4" on both sides, just underneath your arm.
Back view: As to your hips, let them out about 1/2" from the waist down. You can also use the darts to help with this; let out just a bit g of those.
Back view: It looks like the back waist is too long; about 1/2" (1.3 cm). To be sure, make a fisheye dart in the back only by pinning out a total of 1/2" (1.3 cm) just above the waistline, tapering to nothing at the side seams. If this stops the puddling at CB, then you're on your way. Add the amount you pinned out to the bottom of the hemline (which, by your pictures, is higher than the front by about 1/2" 1.3 cm)
Sleeve view: As to the sleeve, it looks like your bicep is a tad too large for the sleeve. Measure your bicep and compare it to the pattern; the pattern difference should be a minimum of 1.5" (3.8 cm)
Side view: Lower your bust dart 1/2" (1.3 cm). It should be just under the bust mound; not pointing to it. This might help to remove some of the diagonal wrinkles you see below the bust.

Maybe others might have some different ideas, but this is what I see.


------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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WA USA
Member since 8/18/02
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Date: 6/29/12 10:23 AM

Put both sleeves in.

Take out the waist darts in back.

Cut off the seam allowance on the neck.


Mark the shoulders and waist with magic marker so we can see.

Let out the side seams a tad.

Then more photos.

The round upper back seems like its pulling fabric to the back from the front. These changes could help us figure it out.

Kayabunga
Kayabunga  Friend of PR
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IL USA
Member since 1/21/10
Posts: 149
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 6/29/12 10:50 AM

I think you will find a lot of useful information by watching the the "Blouse Draping" webcast from Peggy Sagers, I know it gave me a few Aha moments. Here is the link to all of her past webcasts ... you'll see that the blouse draping one is the second one she did.

http://silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/index_replays.htm

Fixing/tweaking fitting issues can get SO CONFUSING, my favorite information sources are videos by Peggy Sagers and Cynthia Guffey and Sarah Veblen's book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting is superb. Last but not least, I try to use my own noodle but only when I can base my logic on solid pattern drafting technique. HTH

vondalin
vondalin
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 4/23/11
Posts: 5
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Date: 7/1/12 4:32 PM

Thank you everyone for your great advice and warm welcome.
I just got back from being away for the weekend and have gotten stuck in and started on the adjustments recommended here, I have adjusted the side seams and at the bust and hips and can already see an improvement. I think I was trying to over-fit and not leaving enough ease. I will attack the bust point, sway back and sleeve tomorrow and post up more photos if you all don't mind.


pinkcatflower - I checked out your blog and your final top was great! I hope I can get mine looking as good.
Kayabunga - Thank you for the video link it was really helpful - I think the explanation about length, circumference and depth really helped me with the understanding of fit. Also I had been looking at The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting on Amazon and think I will order it next pay day.

Thank you all

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