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Pattern size Help with choosing a size
cath1492   Advanced Beginner GA USA Member since 11/14/10 Posts: 3	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/1/12 6:10 PM I am returning to sewing after 30-ish years. Patterns have certainly changed!! I wear a size 10-12 in RTW. but strictly according to the size charts on Vogue, I am a size 20. So, I swallowed my pride and cut out a 20 in 8669. It is huge!! I read the review about altering that pattern, but I am not advanced enough to do much alteration. I also made 1179 and it was loose, but it is supposed to be loose, so I thought it was okay for a starter garment. Any suggestions on figuring out sizes? Thanks, Cath
JEF   Intermediate VA USA Member since 7/27/05 Posts: 2443 Board Moderator	Login to reply to this post In reply to cath1492 << Like this post Date: 7/1/12 6:17 PM You can read the pattern reviews. Although a lot of patterns come out too loose if you make the size indicated on the envelope for you measurements, they don't ALL come out bigger. You can also measure a piece of clothing you think fits you (and is somewhat similar in style). So, if you are making a dress, find a dress in your closet whose bodice fits you well. Let's say it's 45 inches around the bust. Measure your pattern pieces (excluding seam allowances). If the pattern measures 49 inches, you know that dress will be significantly looser on you than the one in your closet. Maybe that will be OK because of a style difference but maybe it won't be and at least you're saved the trouble of making it up. HTH, JEF ------ "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln
solveg   Beginner MN USA Member since 2/16/12 Posts: 366	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 7/1/12 6:22 PM I'm only a size different than my rtw size, if I use the upper bust measure instead of the full bust measure....for what it's worth.
Vintage Joan Intermediate Member since 7/16/07 Posts: 9248	Login to reply to this post In reply to cath1492 << Like this post Date: 7/1/12 7:22 PM A lot of people are about two sizes bigger in patterns than in RTW, but that can vary depending on what RTW sizing you're used to. It could be three sizes different if your RTW is particularly "vanity-sized." Also, different pattern companies use different ease. European companies like Ottobre Woman and Burda fit more precisely, so you need to follow the sizing they recommend and then adjust if necessary. With U.S. pattern companies, sizing can be all over the map. Your next Vogue pattern might fit much truer to size, but as far as I can see there's no way to know for sure. Which is why I avoid Big 4 patterns. -- Edited on 7/1/12 7:23 PM -- ------ my shield and my very great reward (Gen. 15:1) ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ http://clearingclearing.weebly.com/
Vintage Joan Intermediate Member since 7/16/07 Posts: 9248	Login to reply to this post In reply to JEF << Like this post Date: 7/1/12 7:27 PM Quote: the one in your closet This might actually be a really good way to get started figuring out what pattern size to use. Measure the finished bust, hip, and waist measurements of some RTW items that fit well and compare these to what the pattern says the finished measurements will be. Not totally precise, but maybe a way to get some kind of guideline. ------ my shield and my very great reward (Gen. 15:1) ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ http://clearingclearing.weebly.com/
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6999	Login to reply to this post In reply to cath1492 << 2 members like this. Date: 7/1/12 7:41 PM The "hugeness" can be fixed easily if it's only relating to side seams. But if it is huge across the shoulders, you will need to measure your actual shoulder size and compare it with the pattern. I can't tell you how many times I've bought a pattern (and I know what size it is because RTW is different), and this has happened. The key is this: measure across your high bust and then measure across your bust. If there is a big difference between the high bust and the actual bust, choose the high bust size and do a Full Bust Adjustment (tips here everywhere on PR) only if the difference is more than 2". If your high bust difference is 2" from your actual bust, and the high bust is what is on the pattern, then choose by the high bust. Then check your shoulder length--that also makes patterns look huge. If your shoulder length is smaller than the shoulders on the pattern, adjust your shoulder length; you have to get this part done first before you move on to anything else--the rest is just at the side seams. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
LynnRowe   Advanced BC CANADA Member since 3/9/09 Posts: 6787	Login to reply to this post In reply to cath1492 << 3 members like this. Date: 7/1/12 9:01 PM Fit the body part(s) that the garment hangs from. A dress or top hangs from the shoulders, so choose a pattern size for those garments that is the closest match to your upper chest to neck area. Choose the smaller size if you're smack between two sizes. Shoulder/upper chest areas are very difficult to adjust for, so choose pattern size by that area first, then make the easier bust adjustment(s). Slacks and skirts hang from the waist, so choose a size that matches in the waist. Then adjust the hip area as needed. My shoulder/upper chest area matches a size 8 in the Big 4 patterns. If I went by my bust measurement, I'd be a size 12-14, and I'd be swimming in the garment. So I start with a size 8 in tops, dresses, and jackets, then adjust the bust area. -- Edited on 7/1/12 9:02 PM -- ------ I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life! And Rupert (Pfaff 2023), Baby (BL Enlighten), Victor (BLCS), Ash (Bernina 350SE), Pal (Bernina 530), Kee (Bernina 750) and the Featherteen Flock! Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.
OhSewSlowly Beginner CA Member since 5/31/12 Posts: 5	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/2/12 11:42 AM I'm working on getting myself into the habit of ALWAYS measuring the pattern (rather than relying on the pattern envelope) before cutting my fabric...
marec   Intermediate OR USA Member since 5/11/08 Posts: 3549	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/2/12 1:20 PM I have slowly become more particular about fit, and yesterday altered a bodice shoulder from a 10 to a 6. I measured myself, the muslin, myself, the pattern, tried it on, pinned, measured... I'm mentioning the sizes because there is NO WAY I can fit into a 6. The pattern measurement chart was either off, the draft off, or I shrunk. It was one of those moments that will stay in my memory file when choosing patterns. Take your time and measure the pattern and the garment as you are sewing. ------ my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/ Sewing through my pattern stash-125 completed.
cath1492   Advanced Beginner GA USA Member since 11/14/10 Posts: 3	Login to reply to this post In reply to LynnRowe << Like this post Date: 7/6/12 3:18 PM Lynn, What is the upper chest to neck measurement? Is it from the middle of the chest? Thanks, Cathie

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