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Forum > Fitting Woes > Wrinkles, sagging and misery, oh my! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Wrinkles, sagging and misery, oh my!
Any wisdom on fixing this blouse?
ElizLunday
ElizLunday  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/12 12:52 PM

Good morning! I'm working on fitting a simple shell, and while I've gotten the waist and hips OK, the upper chest is giving me fits.

I made a wearable muslin out of a linen-rayon blend, and I haven't ironed it since I last wore it, so there are wrinkles, but I wanted to leave them in so you can see where the problem areas are.



I already know that I need to move up the bust dart, because it's pointing about half an inch lower than the bust point. I also need to make the sleeves longer since right now they look like wings. I have pudgy upper arms, so I always make my sleeves wider, but the result looks like I'm about to fly away.

The real problem is above the bust, where I'm getting weird wrinkling and gapping. I'm wondering, first, if the facing is dragging down the neckline. I could eliminate this by just lining the entire top instead of having a facing.

Other than that, I can see that the top of the sleeve is pulling in and I've got wrinkles under the armholes. Does that mean I need to make that area wider???

If I pull the sleeves out and stand ramrod straight, it looks better, but I can't always be fussing with the neck!

Any wisdom is appreciated! Thanks so much.

petro
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Date: 7/3/12 1:48 PM

Is it tight under the arms? I would guess try letting the side seams out a smidge to see what happens in the chest area and neck after that.

JTink
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In reply to ElizLunday <<


Date: 7/3/12 6:42 PM

Is the shoulder a bit narrow on you? If you add about an inch at the shoulder/sleeve cap area, it might allow that neck/sleeve area to relax a bit. It looks like if I were to grab both sleeves and pull down, it might make some difference. If the shoulders/sleeve cap are sitting at your shoulder, then the next suggestion I have is cutting the front neck smaller.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/3/12 6:56 PM

I would lower the armscye and add to the shoulder width, definitely

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Lynnelle
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Date: 7/3/12 8:40 PM

The top looks too big in the upper chest. What pattern and size did you use? Did you select the size according to your high or full bust measurement?

ElizLunday
ElizLunday  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/12 9:50 PM

JTink is right--if you grab the sleeves and pull down, it looks infinitely better. But as I can't go around yanking on my sleeves all the time, I took the photo the way it looks after walking around for five minutes. So adding to the shoulder width is probably smart.

Lynnelle, yes, I went with the size based on my high bust measurement, then did a FBA.

OK, I will start by adjusting the armscye, adding to the shoulder, lining rather than facing the neck, and making the sleeves longer. Oh, and moving the dart.

Thanks so much! Any other comments are welcome, of course, and I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Sharon1952
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Date: 7/4/12 8:03 AM

It looks to me like your underarm is hiking it up. I agree that dropping the arm scythe will make a world of difference. The shoulders look about 1/2" too short for your shoulders, but that may be an illusion caused by the arm opening.
Let us see your fixed muslin.

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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

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