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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Adding some room to Vogue 8648 - (Khalje Crafty Couture dress course pattern) ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Adding some room to Vogue 8648 - (Khalje Crafty Couture dress course pattern)
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Member since 12/10/11
Posts: 145
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Date: 7/7/12 5:28 PM

So I'm working on Vogue 8648, the pattern used for the Khalje Couture dress course, though I have yet to buy the course. I've _never_ owned a fitted dress. Ever. And while I like the idea and the lines while standing up, I feel the need for more room. (I've completed a first rough muslin and tried it on.)

So I found myself thinking about inverted pleats, which in theory would fall to make an unchanged outline while I'm standing, while giving way to make more walking and sitting room. In theory. Feel free to correct my theory.

Is there any reason why it would be a extraordinarily bad idea to add an inverted pleat to each of the two front and two back seams of the skirt? And if I did, should I add all of it to the straight-grain center pieces and none of it to the bias side pieces? (I'm having a bit of trouble imagining precisely how I'd do that, but I'm hoping it'll come to me when I sit down to fold bits of fabric.)

I'm also imagining adding an inverted pleat to the sleeve, though there I can't even imagining it falling back to its original line - it would, I realize, make the sleeve flare out, maybe weirdly.

In case it's relevant, I should add that my figure is such that I'm blending from a 14/16 at my neck and shoulders, out to more like an 18/20 at my chest and middle back, all the way out to a 22 at the waist and the rest of the skirt. And I'm going to need to add about an inch and a half to the front of the bodice, blending back to zero at the sides. (Edited to clarify: That is, the front waist is too high.) I'm not sure whether to do this to the main bodice pieces or the midriff.

Whee! Opinions? Advice? Would the Khalje course address any of this? (OK , probably not the inverted pleats, but maybe the multi-size thing and lengthening the bodice front.)
-- Edited on 7/7/12 5:46 PM --


Nancywin  Friend of PR
Member since 7/25/06
Posts: 929
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/8/12 1:07 AM

I am taking the couse and I would encourage you to join. Although this is not a fitting class, I think Susan would be glad to answer your questions. I am so glad I started this class and hope to start my muslin next week


Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight (Proverbs 3:5-6)

Judy Kski
Judy Kski  Friend of PR
Member since 10/26/08
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Date: 7/8/12 2:20 PM

I, too, signed up for this class and look forward to all the advice Susan can give along the way. You can learn so much about fitting in this class that I would encourage you to take it.

I'm still waiting for my pattern to arrive, but will be officially starting very soon. I've already listened to the Intro and Muslin I portion of the class. I had to contact my Internet provider to get things fixed with the timing of the streaming of the video and audio. Now that it is fixed, I'm ready to go to work!
-- Edited on 7/8/12 2:21 PM --


KathySews  Friend of PR
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3642

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
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Date: 7/8/12 2:32 PM

The standard answer I would give is --- make a muslin and see how you like it. Although this is the pattern used in the course, you can use any pattern you wish. Could you find one with the features you do like?

I took the course and loved it; but it is about couture sewing techniques, not much on fitting. I am a plus size and spent quite a bit of time getting the bust right. The tracing and muslin techniques helped me with perfecting the fit once I did my fba. It is a fitted dress, but when it is fitted to your body, it is very comfortable.

One tip about this pattern that I will share; she raised the back piece. It was to stop the shoulder from slipping off your shoulders. I really appreciated that because I hate having to pull straps back on my shoulders.

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