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Forum > Fitting Woes > Stretching a neck band...that's been interfaced ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Stretching a neck band...that's been interfaced
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/11/12 3:25 PM

I'm working on Simplicity 1805 View A for the display wall at our local Joanns(for the classroom). I have come across something that just doesn't make sense. After stitching the shoulder seams, I then attach the interfaced neck band(not cut on the bias). There is a lot of neck to take up and the instructions state to "stretch the band to fit". There is no way to stretch an interfaced neck band. This neck line is big anyway, so beware if you are making this pattern.

Does anyone have a solution to this. If it were me, I'd cut a piece of bias tape, stitch(and stretch)then turn to make a neat finish. I'm going to be teaching this to folks and have to pretty much go by what the directions say. Suggestions?

ConnieBJ
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Subject: Stretching a neck band...thats been interfaced Date: 7/11/12 5:07 PM

Does the pattern call for the neckband to be finished?

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/11/12 5:23 PM

A thought here: What do you have against the feeddogs? The interfaced neckband or the shoulder and neck? My most Aha! moment came when I was watching a woman make clothing. She would say, "Stretch the band and ease the skirt" and she had the skirt against the feed dogs to help with the easing. So I would put the shoulder and neck pieces against the feed dogs.

If it's really a bear, try clipping a bit, maybe 1/4", into the interfacing to make it move.

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JeanM

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Date: 7/11/12 5:31 PM

You might also try a line of ease stitching around the neck - which you can use to pull up the neckline slightly before sewing...

Sew4Fun
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/11/12 6:21 PM

Quote: JTink
There is no way to stretch an interfaced neck band.

Actually there is. Use a knit interfacing with the stretch the same way as the fabric. I've interfaced and stretched a neckband to fit a neckline on many occasions. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
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JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/11/12 7:01 PM

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I always put my "largest" part on the feeddogs so they can take up the slack. The neck band is to be folded just over the seam, it allows for about a 5/8 inch band around the neck.

I've always used a bias neck band and it's easy to stretch that to fit, with a bit of nudging on the underside. I do think I'll have to run that stay stitching around the neck edge next time. I did actually do that around the back and eased it into the band. Got a little bit of a soft gather, but I'm not wearing this anyway. I can't figure out why this was cut on the straight grain and then interfaced. The neck band should be like a "rubber band" and pull that neck back up and keep it from stretching. That isn't going to happen on this garment.

I've never worked with stretch interfacing before. I would think, with stretch interfacing it would just let it continue to stretch, while being stitched on and not "spring" back, once the band has been completely connected to the neck.

My concern is, when the students go out to buy their supplies(material, interfacing etc.)they are not going to know to pick out stretch interfacing.

wendyrb
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/11/12 8:15 PM

Can you contact students before the class to say buy some stretch interfacing. Or say you'll need to supplement the supply kit, be prepared to buy this in class. How many are enrolled?

I'm wondering about the fit of each part independent of the other to better understand what is the problem.

* How does the neckline fit, before setting the band? Is the neck "hole" in a good position on the neck, a good shape and circumference? It's too big in the sewing, but is it also simply too big on the body?

* How does the collar fit put around your neck, without the bodice neckline joined to it? It's too small in the sewing, but is it also too small on the body?

If it's too late to look at the parts, I'd do a quick muslin, like a dickey of just the neck area, to have a look and learn about each part. We don't know if it's pattern making only issue, or a fit issue too. Hard to say reduce one, or expand the other, or split the difference.

Let us know how you're working things out.

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Sew4Fun
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/11/12 8:26 PM

Quote:
I've never worked with stretch interfacing before. I would think, with stretch interfacing it would just let it continue to stretch, while being stitched on and not "spring" back, once the band has been completely connected to the neck.

With good quality knit interfacing it will stretch and spring back.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
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JTink
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Date: 7/12/12 8:46 AM

Thanks all. I knew before ever cutting this pattern, the neck was going to be wider than I like. You can see it on the pattern drawing. On the "real" model, it looks smaller. In reality, it's big. I cut a small. I used a very soft T-knit that complied with the stretch requirements. I think I'll try a knit that's not so stretchy. I just don't know what the pattern companies are thinking these days. On the back of the envelope, in the "notions" area, they don't even suggest interfacing. On the directions, they say interface. How is a newbie, who wouldn't ordinarily have a stash of interfacing laying around, even know about this?
Oh well, I'm teaching "how to make a garment" not how to fit

Nancy K
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In reply to JTink <<
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Date: 7/12/12 3:28 PM

But isn't how to fit it also part of how to make it? If it doesn't fit them then they aren't going to want to go on with sewing.
It may very well be a drafting error or there is a better way to do it than the instructions, which is almost always the case. Why not fix the errors so that you teach it better than the pattern?

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