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General Fitting for Kwik Sew 3620 and Swayback Issues
Sibilance7
Sibilance7
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Subject: Fitting Kwik Sew 3620 and Swayback Issues Date: 7/12/12 0:13 AM

I'm working on a muslin for Kwik Sew 3620, and I have a couple of issues. The most important one is a potential swayback issue. I've read a lot of threads on swayback and all the things that can masquerade as swayback, but I'm still not understanding the whole issue nor how to fix it. I can't understand how a center back seam is supposed to help, because it seems like it would just rotate the pattern pieces in funny ways. Anyway, I clearly have some unsightly puddling of fabric on my KS3620 muslin, and I need to do something about it.

I've included a photo below, as well as a photo of a RTW shirt with very excessive puddling and blousing on the back. The RTW shirt fits perfectly on the front, but the back is really funky, and this is something that happens to me all the time with RTW. As a side note, I also realize that the RTW shirt is too long, but even if I take off the length, I still have the blousing/puddling problem.

Any help that anyone could offer would be much appreciated. This exact issue is why I wanted to start sewing my own garments to begin with. After sewing a few skirts and one ill-fated dress, I really want to get started tackling this terrible fit issue so I can finally have clothes I love to wear!

Rear view of KS3620 (Note that I only put one sleeve on the muslin so far. Also, that little horizontal mark you see is where the pattern said the natural waist should be.)


Side view of KS3620


Side view of RTW top


Rear view of RTW top


You can see the photos larger by going to my Flickr set here:
Flickr Set

-- Edited on 7/12/12 1:36 AM --

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

Lynnelle
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In reply to Sibilance7 <<


Date: 7/12/12 10:23 AM

Quote: Sibilance7
I can't understand how a center back seam is supposed to help, because it seems like it would just rotate the pattern pieces in funny ways.

I have a severe sway back and always need to make this adjustment. Having a center back seam helps because you can use it to shorten the distance from the neck to waist without affecting the side seam. This, in turn, helps to remove some of the excess fabric that pools at the back.

The back of this pattern is cut on the fold. To make the swayback adjustment, do the following:

1. At or near the waistline, draw a line perpendicular from the CB fold to the side seam line.

2. Determine the amount of length to remove and measure from the line you just drew. Mark this amount on the pattern. I don't know if you should mark it above or below the line you drew. I think I mark the amount above the line; I don't remember. I normally remove 1.25 inches of length. If you need to remove more than that, you may need to do it in two places. I know some people do an aggressive swayback adjustment of 2 inches.

3. Cut on the line you drew up to, but not through, the seamline. You may need to add a small snip from the side seam to the seamline to help relax the paper once the adjustment is made. If the snip is needed, you will end up increasing the side cut length by a miniscule amount; the side seam length remains the same and that's what's important.

4. Shorten the back length by overlapping the cut line with the measurement you identified in step 2.

5. Since the pattern is already cut on the fold, you are doing the adjustment at the seamline. True this line and then add a seam allowance.

You may need to make a correction with the dart. I don't think that will be too difficult.

As for the sleeves, I would set in both to assess fit.

Hope this helps.

L
-- Edited on 7/12/12 10:24 AM --
Sibilance7
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In reply to Lynnelle <<


Date: 7/13/12 1:48 AM

This is so helpful - thank you for typing it all out!

I just have two questions:

1. How should I determine the amount of length to remove? Should I just pinch out the excess fabric in my muslin and measure it, then remove that much?

2. In step 5, you say I should true a line, but I'm not sure what that means. Is the line I'm truing the side seam? How do I true it? Just draw it back straight down since it now has an angle in it?

Again, thank you so much!

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

Sibilance7
Sibilance7
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Date: 7/13/12 1:50 AM

Oh, also, how would you recommend I fix this issue in RTW? Or is that not really a recommended alteration for RTW? It seems like it would be a bit hard to manage without taking the whole garment apart.

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Sibilance7 <<


Date: 7/13/12 3:17 AM

How tall are you? How long is your centre back length from nape to natural waist?

Looking at your photos (especially the side views) I don't think this is a sway back issue at all but rather a length issue. To me it looks like the entire blouse needs to be shorter above the waist, then you need to add length in the front for your bust.

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Shellia

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Date: 7/13/12 8:17 AM

I thought the same thing as Sew4Fun, as that is often something I have to do for myself.

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having a dog makes you rich.

Sibilance7
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In reply to Sew4Fun <<


Date: 7/13/12 11:57 AM

I'm five feet tall, so pretty short. I have Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting With Confidence, and I haven't been able to understand a lot of what she's saying. I'm better if I learn by seeing it done in front of me and then trying it out myself with someone around to correct me - just reading it out of a book is difficult. Anyway, I measured my "back waist length" for that book and it was 13 inches. Does that sound right? Nancy says to measure the pattern's back waist length and then compare the difference. So that pattern's is 16 3/4 inches. How would doing the alteration you're describing be different than the swayback alteration, or what steps would I take to do this alteration?

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

Lynnelle
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In reply to Sibilance7 <<


Date: 7/13/12 3:45 PM

After having learned your height, I think you have both a length and swayback issue (maybe not as grand as mine). I am five feet tall as well and have a back waist measurement of about 15 inches. 13 seems a bit small, but then again you could be extremely short-waisted.

The alteration for removing length is simple. You cut across the pattern entirely and decrease the overall length. This would happen on both the front and back. Again, if there is a lot of length to remove, you may want to do this in a couple of places. The swayback alteration only removes length at the center back.

With what size did you start?

Sibilance7
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Date: 7/13/12 4:10 PM

I started with a size XL. As is, this shirt fits me better than most RTW. The wrinkles on my back are usually much worse, as you can see with the RTW top. I'm going to try to decrease the overall length first to see what that does for me since it's an easy alteration.

One thing that concerns me is the side seam - see how it's at an angle? Should it go straight down the side of my body? That makes me think part of my problem is a protruding butt, but maybe taking out total length would help with this too because then the shirt wouldn't hit me so low on the butt.

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

Sibilance7
Sibilance7
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Posts: 570
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Date: 7/13/12 4:56 PM

Ok, so I just pinned up the blouse, taking up 3 inches of length at the waist, and it looks a lot better already. I retraced my pattern pieces with the length taken out, and I'm going to redo the muslin with the shorter length. When I get that done, I'll post new photos. I think that I'll still need something else when I'm done with this shortening, maybe a swayback adjustment or maybe something else, but just shortening it is going to do a lot, I think.

------
My blog: www.feministstitch.com

I sew on:
Olivia, my Pfurple Pfaff Creative Performance
BabyLock Evolution

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