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Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA with a waistline dart ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA with a waistline dart
woolcat
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Date: 7/13/12 12:14 PM

Hello! First time posting here, but I have been picking up lots of useful info from all the reviews here.

I have just made my first foray into the FBA and so far it has worked well - which really transforms the sewing experience. But I have 2 patterns where the FBA just is not working for me. For both of them (one is a dress, one a jacket) the original pattern has a bodice dart at the waistline, but not at the side. I have tried doing the FBA by cutting up the line of the original dart towards the bust point, but because this line is not parallel with the centre front, the FBA seems to be going all wonky. I want to add about 3" to the bust and front waist, and I need to add length to the bodice; I want to do this by enlarging the existing dart rather than adding a side one, if that is possible. Any advice for me? I appreciate any help you can give!

Silk Challis
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Date: 7/13/12 3:07 PM

The trick is to rotate the dart from the waist to the side, perform your FBA and then rotate again the dart from the side to the waist.

I published a tip here on patternreview for executing the FBA on a jacket with vertical and lapel darts. You can follow the same procedure omitting the bits about the lapel dart to perform your FBA:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/review/2836

All the pictures here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/challis9/sets/72157628208586309/

Silk Challis
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In reply to woolcat <<


Date: 7/13/12 3:14 PM

I forgot to say: welcome to PR!

And sharing with you almost the same amount to add to patterns with an FBA, I would suggest to make multiple vertical darts instead of a single one when you finally rotate the dart back to the waist. You can see a possible version in the pictures linked in my previous post.

Silk Challis
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Date: 7/13/12 3:34 PM

More info on rotating darts:

http://www.withamoderntwist.com/2011/02/how-to-rotating-darts.html

Nancy K
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In reply to Silk Challis <<


Date: 7/13/12 6:36 PM

This is one way to do it. Sandra Betzina has another way to add to a garment that already has a dart. You cut up parallel to the cf and then up to the shoulder. From the line to the shoulder you draw about 4 lines to the armhole seamline and cut each one. Spread the vertical cut the amount you need to add and then arrange the cuts to the armhole to keep the pattern flat. This keeps the dart from getting too large which is hard to sew. A dart with larger than a 2" uptake is difficult to make work. if you only want vertical darts than you really should add a second one if you are adding a dart and rotating it into the vertical dart.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

woolcat
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Date: 7/18/12 11:55 AM

Thank you so much! I will try removing the vertical dart first, then go from there. I know I don't want a huge dart all in one place, and I may have to add a small horizontal one to keep the vertical one manageable.

Nancy, if I spread at the armhole, won't that increase the size of the armhole and cause problems fitting the sleeve?

I really appreciate you both taking time to answer my question - and SC, the series of pictures is amazing!

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