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Lining for who knows what
I want a stash
solveg
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solveg  Friend of PR
Beginner
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/16/12
Posts: 366
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Date: 7/13/12 11:42 PM

I'm looking for a versatile lining I can use with various med to lightweight wool. I don't know what I am going to make, I just don't want to have to stop in my process to go find the right lining material. I've heard bemberg/ambience is a great choice, but hard to work with. It needs to be natural, and dry cleanable.

It would be really cool if I could find a great print at a great price and have it be my signature lining, but I guess you have to choose the color to go with your fabric or it might show through.

I really don't want to spend a lot on it... I made a big point of buying fabric on deep discount so that I wouldn't feel bad if screwed up the garment as I learn. I suppose that won't happen with the lining as it goes in last.

So, where's the best place to buy lining? Is silk easier to work with than bemberg?



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Date: 7/14/12 1:49 AM

Fabric Mart has lining bundles, but it's a crap shoot on the colors. Last time I got white, yellow, Kelly green, a pale peachy-pink and a dark brown knit. Some are colors I'll use, some aren't but it's good quality.

JKimes
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JKimes  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/14/12 9:14 AM

My first choice for lining is always Silk Charmeuse, especially with wool, though that can get expensive. Next choice would be China Silk or Bemberg Rayon. China Silk can be really thin and transparent in lighter colors. Bemberg is a great option--comes in lots of colors, breathes and easy to work with.

Juliette

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Juliette near Austin, TX
Bernina 830LE
Bernina 350PE
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solveg
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solveg  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
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Date: 7/14/12 9:33 AM

Thanks! So, is voile/batiste/lawn a poor lining choice for lightweight wool and cotton/wool blend? I read that it doesn't keep its shape very well, but I'm not sure that this is a lining's job? Wouldn't that be the interlining?

Wow. There is NO clear, succinct info on the internet about precisely what lining goes with what fabric. Here's the closest thing I found:

from Sew, Mama, Sew!

"After deciding on the purpose of your lining, you can then make the choice as to what type of fabric to use. Here are some options:
1. Smooth cottons are used when lining simple garments such as skirts or blouses. You usually want something that is light in color, breathable and smooth against your skin.
2. Fiber blends are easy to find which can be used to line more formal garments. These are usually labeled in stores as “Linings” and can be a combination of silk, satin, taffeta or chiffon. You can choose from glossy to matte finishes as well as printed or plain fabrics.
3. Heavier linings may be needed for robes & jackets. These may include fake furs, fleece or some heavy polyester blend.
Overall, you need to consider how the lining will add to the bulk, drape and shape of your garment. If lining a jacket for warmth, remember to accommodate for the added bulk."

Michelle L
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Michelle L
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 1/20/08
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Date: 7/14/12 9:42 AM

I typically don't use voile or batiste as a lining. Occasionally a loose skirt, but in tailored garments the purpose of a lining is to allow the garment to easily slide on.

For that reason, linings with silky textures are used...especially in jackets.

If you have a fabric that potentially will loose it's shape, then you may wish to underline your garment fabric or block fuse it with interfacing before you cut the fabric.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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Ontario Canada
Member since 7/16/07
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Date: 7/14/12 9:50 AM

For most things I buy light, silky polyesters for linings -- not actual items sold as linings, but softer, prettier stuff.

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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

solveg
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solveg  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
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Date: 7/14/12 10:27 AM

hmmmm.

OK, let me tell you what I'm understanding.

For wool challis, I need to make something soft and flowing and probably would only want a lining for appearance/design (like you could see inside the sleeve cuffs). I can't hand wash challis? Even if I roll it? And cotton isn't drycleanable, so I would have to go with poly or bemberg or silk...

For wool/cotton shirt and light weight suiting, I was planning semi-structured only, since I'm still working with beginner patterns. I figured the voile would be OK here.

For linen, voile would be OK---in fact, preferable.

But I can use any lightweight poly, silk, or bemberg for these fabrics?

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