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Buttonholes
vertical, horizontal... what the diff?
crazygrad
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crazygrad  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/14/12 6:16 PM

I am making KwikSew 3484
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It has buttonholes. I have never sewn a machine buttonhole before. I learned how to do so by hand ages ago and don't remember.Seriously, I remember so little of how to do this it could include mayonnaise jars, plutonium, and spinach.

My machine has a buttonhole stitch and foot (not the kind you put the button in though). The pattern has you do a horizontal buttonhole, but it seems to me the vertical would be easier to line up correctly and create a neat placket.

So what is the difference between a horizontal and a vertical buttonhole?

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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Date: 7/14/12 8:14 PM

I have read somewhere that vertical buttonholes are used when there's a center front band, and horizontal at other times.

HOWEVER - when I made the spouse a shirt similar to your pattern, and used horizontal buttonholes (like the pattern specified), he thought that was wrong. And when I examined the other camp/sport shirts in his closet, sure enough they all had vertical buttonholes.

so I guess you can do whatever you want!

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--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to crazygrad <<


Date: 7/14/12 8:34 PM

Vertical buttonholes are placed in those areas that you don't want ease or stretching; that's why they are vertical on most RTW. But if you look at a cuff with a buttonhole, or a neckline, you can see that they are horizontal because the area is meant to stretch a little.

Most men's RTW, has vertical buttonholes, but with women's clothing, that's pretty different. And especially true of patternmakers; it depends on the patternmaker as to which direction. But being as this is a man's shirt, I'd make the vertical ones.

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2 Airedales n Me
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2 Airedales n Me  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/15/12 2:24 PM

Louise Cutting has super instructions for machine buttonholes and they have made a big difference in how mine look. She recommends cutting a sheet of Solvy into pieces large enough to sandwich the area to be sewn so the Solvy is stitched through from the top and the bottom. It is later washed away. This really helps with the stitch quality.

Use good quality thread and a new needle.

Once the Solvy is washed away (spritzing is fine) and the fabric is dry, with a toothpick apply Fray Check (or similar product) to the portion of the buttonhole that will be cut open. Let it completely dry. This prevents little fraying that can happen if threads are accidentally cut.

Cut the button open using a "chisel" if you have one - especially made to cut open buttonholes. Or just with very sharp scissors starting at the "ends" and working toward center.

Some machines make better b'holes than others. My older Pfaff was not good but my newer Bernina makes perfect ones.

I hope this helps a bit.

crazygrad
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Date: 7/19/12 6:27 PM

Thanks for all the tips! When I get ready to hole, I will certainly try the solvy and fray check.

And I never thought about the direction of the holes. Now I've been checking my and husabnd's RTW for the direction... its getting weird.

cinca
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In reply to crazygrad <<


Date: 7/19/12 10:46 PM

I vote for vertical on that pattern of yours, too. I have made shirts for my husband since we were teenagers and dinosaurs roamed the earth.

Whether the shirt was placated or not, my buttonholes down the front are always vertical.

If the shirt is long-sleeved with a cuff, then (as another poster pointed out) the buttonholes are horizontal on the cuff.

If the buttons are huge as sometimes is the case on a coat, then it is probably better to make horizontal holes down the front closing, because a buttonhole that large made in the vertical direction, may gape open when the button pulls slightly on it. No rules, really, just do what is practical.

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 7/23/12 6:11 PM

I agree with the others - horizontal button holes are for coats (outerwear or blazers), cuffs, and waistbands. If the shirt/blouse buttons all the way up, sometimes the one at the neck will be horizontal (usually so it fits on the collar/neck facing - but all the rest are vertical!

allycovey
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Date: 7/24/12 11:28 AM

Love the solvy and fray check idea---- I am going to do that on my next buttonholes

HDWen
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Date: 7/24/12 11:38 AM

Vertical, after I made my husband my first men's shirt I was TOLD! lol I did mine horizontal and the next two will be as HE specified.

I learned my machine does 2 perfect buttonholes then the 3rd is a pick out So I keep scraps nearby to mess up the 3rd, reset the machine and make the next 2 good ones. Odd but play around with your machine and scraps long before "testing" on your real shirt -- picking them out is awful and then the fabric doesn't like trying to go over "that" spot

Best of luck!

------
I have a great enthusium for sewing, but lack talent to be great.

2013

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