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What is the proper protocol for adding to side seams?
SecondHandRogue
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SecondHandRogue  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Rhode Island USA
Member since 12/28/05
Posts: 656
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Date: 7/15/12 7:52 PM

I just made a quick muslin for the bodice of Sewaholic Cambie. As you know, tasia's patterns are cut for pears, and I'm a slightly thick waisted hourglass. I'm in no mood to wrangle a FBA, and the bust was too tight. I was ready to wad. But after ripping out the side seams and resewing them at 3/8" instead of 5/8", the bodice fit! It doesn't hug my ribs the way my Colette patterns do, but I'm perfectly happy with the fit.

So here's the question: can I just sew the side seams with a 3/8" seam allowance, making the necessary adjustments to the skirt and waistband? Or do I have to extend the pattern pieces to maintain the 5/8" seam allowance?

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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West Virginia USA
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Date: 7/15/12 8:26 PM

Quote:
So here's the question: can I just sew the side seams with a 3/8" seam allowance, making the necessary adjustments to the skirt and waistband? Or do I have to extend the pattern pieces to maintain the 5/8" seam allowance?


You can edit the seams wherever you like. You don't have to make the seams the same everywhere in the dress, as long as you're happy to fiddle with the skirt and waistband fit.
sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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In reply to SecondHandRogue <<
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Date: 7/15/12 8:36 PM

Quote: SecondHandRogue
So here's the question: can I just sew the side seams with a 3/8" seam allowance, making the necessary adjustments to the skirt and waistband? Or do I have to extend the pattern pieces to maintain the 5/8" seam allowance?

Sew them where you need them. I promise, the sewing police will not come to your house and measure your finished seam allowances! Just remember that notches should always be cut pointing out, not pointing in, or this type of fudging could leave holes in the seam at the notch tips.
My mom sewed most of my clothing as I grew up and seam allowances were not only fair game for being sewn differently, but she was known to use the same pattern for different daughters, just cutting the side seams an inch or so out further for me than for my sister. We're all short, so the length never really mattered much.

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Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

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SecondHandRogue
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Date: 7/15/12 8:42 PM

So relieved! I guess this dress might get made after all.

Great tip on making those innie notches outies....so glad I posted before snipping!

ChickenFreak
ChickenFreak
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Oregon USA
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Date: 7/16/12 1:33 AM

I recently did a lot of playing with seam allowances on a princess seamed bodice, and I chose to leave the seam allowance at the armhole alone, so that I wouldn't have to play with the arm of the sleeve. Of course, this requires that I start with the right size for my shoulders. (And I may not have; I'm still debating whether to trace the next size down for the next version.)

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ChickenFreak
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