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Forum > Fitting Woes > My first swayback adjustment...is it working? :-) ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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My first swayback adjustment...is it working? :-)
flyawayhair
flyawayhair  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/18/12 2:57 PM

This is my first attempt at a swayback adjustment. You can see the progress...I pinched out the extra fabric and then removed it from the pattern (which has two darts) and redrew the darts. There is some improvement but not much. Should I just keep repeating this process until the wrinkles are gone?

swayback adj

pattern adjust
-- Edited on 7/18/12 2:59 PM --

SVN
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SVN
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In reply to flyawayhair <<
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Date: 7/18/12 4:30 PM

In my opinion, yes. I don't think you have much of a sway-back (an excess length issue), but a very small centre of the back (a width issue) - i.e., your back waist is very small. I'd add back darts or a centre back seam. I always do.
I prefer darts, but if you add a CB seam then pinch out both at CB and at side seams so you don't get pulling.

GlButterfly

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Date: 7/18/12 4:50 PM

Flyawayhair---love that, by the way---it appears to me that your right shoulder is lower than your left. If you smooth out the back diagonal wrinkle and bring some of that fabric up into your shoulder, it should go away, or at least look better.

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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 7/19/12 1:11 AM

The middle photo looks perfect. But what happened in the right photo? There is some pulling at your armpit that doesn't appear in the other two photos. Are the fabrics really that different? I'd move those waist darts a little more toward the center. You don't have to stick to any rules as to where they should be placed, as long as they work with the curve of your back, which might be different than what is intended with the pattern.

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arianamaniacs
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In reply to SVN <<
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Date: 7/19/12 10:52 AM

I agree, I think deeper back darts or CB seam will fix that. I prefer the CB for my sway back, I find that when darts are too deep, they start to distort the fabric and it doesn't lay as nicely anymore. That or I don't sew them right :-D. A CB seam is easy to fix. Just keep taking more in until it hangs snugly across the back.

doompancakes
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Date: 7/24/12 8:28 PM

Small back waist aside, lots of things other then swayback can cause excess length in the back of a top. Being busty can also cause a big difference between front and back waist lengths. After having that same puddle of fabric, I finally measured my front and back waist (front waist is 4.75 inches longer), and the front and back waist on my pattern, and realised that the pattern front and back lengths were identical once the bust darts were folded up. For shirt patterns What I do is fold out the excess length above the waist (on the paper pattern, once excess is determined with muslin) and then redraw the pattern adding the number of inches folded out back along the bottom hem.

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