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Forum > Fitting Woes > Please help fit my FIL ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Please help fit my FIL
need more ease + gaping armhole
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3424
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Date: 7/18/12 5:55 PM

I am making my FIL a new doublet for our Renaissance fair using Simplicity 4059. I blended from a M in the shoulders to an XL from armscye down, and am generally really pleased with the fit. FIL lives in a different state, so this was my one and only chance for a test fit. So if I did nothing at all, it would be OK, but ideally I'd like to tweak a couple of things in the final.

First, you can see that I'll be cutting the neckline a little lower, which is no big deal. More important is that I think he'll want a little more ease--although not as much as a full size up. What's the best way to add that--just use smaller seam allowances? I'll be making the real garment from cotton twill and a similar-weight home dec fabric, so it will be a bit bulkier than just the muslin, plus he'll be wearing it over a fairly poofy peasant shirt.

The third issue is that there's just the smallest bit of gap at the back armscye. It actually looks like it would go away if I'd snipped into the seam allowances. As it is, I pinned it out on one side. Should I pinch that out of the pattern, or just leave it alone and assume it will smooth out at the seamline?

Alas, the photos are almost worse than useless (usually reliable photographer had not had his morning coffee!)--you can't really see at all where I pinched out the extra fabric on the left armscye. I am hoping my fit questions are straightforward enough to not be too badly affected by subpar pix!

Thanks!




-- Edited on 7/18/12 5:57 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

JeanK

JeanK
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Member since 2/15/04
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Date: 7/18/12 6:58 PM

I've not done renaissance sewing so don't know the fit that you're looking for....but knowing the fabric that you intend to use, I would add ease by cutting the side seams a bit wider. Twill and similar-weight home dec fabrics don't have as much give as muslin. I'd also not do anything about the slight gaping at the back armhole for the fabric weight reason and also the fact that he'll be wearing the poofy shirt underneath which will take up some room.


-- Edited on 7/18/12 6:59 PM --

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3424
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Date: 7/19/12 6:20 PM

Thanks, Jean--those are great points (esp. about the poofy shirt under)!

So if I were to add 1/4" at each edge of the side seams, that gives me an extra 1" of ease, right? That should work--enough extra room for comfort, but not so much it looks sloppy.

DH has decided to pay his folks a visit in a few weeks, so hopefully I can sneak in another fitting with the actual fabric (DH is a decent fitting assistant; at the very least I can tell him EXACTLY what to look for).

Thanks!

------
~Gem in the prairie

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