SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA issues on McCall's 6350 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
FBA issues on McCall's 6350
Pointy Ridge City
j Renee Design
star
j Renee Design
Intermediate
Wisconsin USA
Member since 7/26/10
Posts: 680
Send Message

      



Date: 7/19/12 12:36 PM

Hey all! I'm making McCall's 6350 and am having a serious pointy dart issue.

This is a multi cup sized pattern (I used the D cup), and then did a bunch of alterations to get it to sit close to my body on and under the bust, including separating the singular vertical bust dart into two darts to hopefully alleviate the pointy issue that I've seen is a problem for many folks with pattern (I moved half of the fullness into a side bust dart).

However, because of all of the alterations, my two darts are...really pointy again. Now more like a ridge between the two ends of the darts instead of a point. I've ended my darts the standard 1"-1/4" (standard according to my pattern drafting book) away from the bust point. Besides this apex issue, the cup fits beautifully.

Any ideas? Because of my full bust do I need to end the darts further away from the bust point? Would curving the sewing line of the dart work well? Any help would be appreciated - I'm on my 5th bodice muslin and hoping to be set to sew the actual dress soon! :)

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 88 1/8, Used: 96 3/8, Stashed: 77 3/4

Silk Challis
star
Silk Challis
Advanced
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 10/15/08
Posts: 136
Send Message

      
thumbsup 2 members like this.



Subject: FBA issues on McCalls 6350 Date: 7/19/12 6:26 PM

Yes, you had the right intuition: darts end further away from the bust point for fuller busts. The actual amount depends on the case. It can even be 3".

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 12/30/11
Posts: 3244
Send Message

      



In reply to j Renee Design <<


Date: 7/19/12 6:55 PM

For a fuller bust, yes the bust circle around the center apex can be further out. Release the dart and drape it in on yourself. Hold it in place with a few pins to see what radius works for you. Try starting with about 2 inches, give or take. This will give a softer roundness to the end of the dart. The curved stitching also is a help.

The other affect of shortening the dart is that you increase the angle of it. That means it forms a more dramatic cupping usually that is more pointy. The longer a dart, the smaller the angle at the end. It's always trade offs. It sounds like you've accomplished a lot in your 5 muslins. After the above suggestion, I say cut a garment, wear it and enjoy. Next time you may be able to push the fitting further along, but you done good!

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
Intermediate
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
Send Message

      



Subject: FBA issues on McCalls 6350 Date: 7/19/12 8:17 PM

You might use a curved dart to avoid this problem.

See also:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all

j Renee Design
star
j Renee Design
Intermediate
Wisconsin USA
Member since 7/26/10
Posts: 680
Send Message

      



Date: 7/24/12 4:51 PM

Thanks for all of your help! I used a curved dart and it was so much better. I also decided enough messing around was enough and finally cut and sewed the dang thing up and posted a review today. :)

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 88 1/8, Used: 96 3/8, Stashed: 77 3/4

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> FBA issues on McCall's 6350

Merchants on PR

Budo Bear Designs


Asian Designs
Web site

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Gwyn Hug


Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Register

Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Register

Vogue Patterns 1181

photo
by: valkyrie01

Review
Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress

Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress

Buy Now
Bluegingerdoll The Ava Jacket Paper Pattern

Bluegingerdoll The Ava Jacket Paper Pattern

Buy Now
Japanese Pattern Books Pattern Magic

photo
by: meggipeg

Review

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.