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Blasted collar tale of woe and plea for help
crazygrad   Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 11/11/07 Posts: 1149	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/19/12 6:19 PM Okay, I am making KwikSew 3484 and canNOT figure out what I am supposed to do with the collar piece and facing. Up until this point, things have been okay-- minus the high amount of writing of the collar pieces (which are pretty small for that much text). But now I have hit a wall. step 7 has you "pin collar to right side of upper collar facing up, matching center back, notches to shoulder seams, and ends of collar to dots. Pin only under collar to back neckline, between shoulder seams." Okay fine. Did that. Here's where the rending of throw pillows commences. I know it isn't that clear, but what I see is the collar is now pulled up, there are notches on the facing that are NOT actually on the facing, and it looks like the faced collar is drooping into the frame, but that isn't possible if the collar is up. This is what it says: "Fold front facings to right side, over collar and pin. Clip seam allowances on upper collar at ends of facings." Next they do this: Text: "Stitch neckline through all layers the width of facing, stitch only under collar between facings, and stitch through all layers the width of facing on other side. Trim corners and clip curved seam allowances." Okay, I get the text but the pics don't seem to line up. If anyone has this pattern or a tutorial on the bowling/camp shirt style collar (sans stand), please let me know. This is totally confusing me. Thanks!
Debbie Lancaster   Intermediate CA USA Member since 9/18/02 Posts: 1662	Login to reply to this post 2 members like this. Date: 7/19/12 9:15 PM Try it this way: 1. Sew up the collar along the outer edges. Trim and clip the curves, then turn it right side out and press it. 2. Clip the upper collar piece at the notches to the seam line. Folding along the seam line, turn the part between the notches to the inside of the collar. Press. 3. Pin the collar to the neckline, with the collar up and the pressed-in part facing you. Match notches with notches and dots with the edge of the collar. You will be pinning only the under collar part to the neckline between the notches. 4. Fold the facings over to the notches. The short edge of the facing should line up with the notch and with the edge of the folded-in part of the upper collar. 5. Stitch through all layers, trim, clip, and turn over. The end result should be that the short end of the facing lines up with the edge of the shoulder seam (see the next step's picture). Hope that helps! -- Edited on 7/19/12 9:16 PM -- ------ Debbie
crazygrad   Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 11/11/07 Posts: 1149	Login to reply to this post In reply to Debbie Lancaster << 1 member likes this. Date: 7/26/12 4:10 PM Thanks! I think it worked! The inside of the shirt is a hot mess. Let us not speak of it. Let's walk children in nature instead. I'm so sorry for the delay. But as a lady is wont to do, I was feeling girlie and decided to pull up the carpet and put down wood in our main entertaining room. Then I went back to the shirt. And I think I got it worked out mostly-- not buttons yet. I want to have the husband try it on for the best placement. Same for the hems (though I hemmed the sleeves). Thanks again!
crazygrad   Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 11/11/07 Posts: 1149	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/26/12 4:11 PM Oh I forgot to ask. Is there a compelling reason why the interfaced collar piece is up? On the muslin I accidentally reversed it. Easy enough to correct on the real version, but I was wondering what the rationale was for having the faced piece face up. Thanks!
JeanK Advanced OR Member since 2/15/04 Posts: 78	Login to reply to this post In reply to crazygrad << Like this post Date: 7/27/12 5:51 PM Interesting. I don't have that pattern but if I'm interfacing only one section, I interface the under collar. It gives support and shape to the collar and leaves the upper collar with soft shaping. Often I will interface both under and upper collar with a light weight interfacing because I like a crisp collar.
Debbie Lancaster   Intermediate CA USA Member since 9/18/02 Posts: 1662	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/28/12 11:45 AM I will often interface both, but if I had to interface just one, it would be the upper collar to avoid any see-through of the seams when it's worn. I doubt it matters very much, as you can see by the two completely different answers. ------ Debbie
Brine   Intermediate IL USA Member since 11/21/04 Posts: 129	Login to reply to this post In reply to Debbie Lancaster << Like this post Date: 7/28/12 3:52 PM I should have reread Debbie's post with the instructions! I've (successfully) made shirts with collars like this in the past, and somehow while working on a Burda Style pattern from the magazine with minimal instructions I absent-mindedly sewed the facings under the collar! Rip, rip, rip! ------ Brine

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