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Bust dart fitting problem
drsmock
drsmock
Intermediate
Connecticut USA
Member since 4/22/03
Posts: 16
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Date: 7/20/12 6:36 PM

I'm making a close fitting top for my daughter, but in her muslin, I can't get the side and from the waist bust darts to end properly! Help! She is a triple D cup bra size. It looks like there is too much fabric at her apex, and the dart ends closest to her apex are hanging out in the breeze. I've tried taking in the front side seam in the bust area 1/4", and shortening the darts to end 1.5" from her apex, but neither helped. Please tell me how to get a smooth fit.
Thank you, drsmock

EDIT:
Here are photos of the area with which I need help achieving a smooth fit.

Side of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/10
You can see all 3 of the photos by going to this link.

3/4 view of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9

Top of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9#11

As you can see, there is puckering/extra fabric at the apex and the darts are sticking out. What are your recommendations for fixing this?
-- Edited on 7/22/12 1:40 PM --
-- Edited on 7/22/12 1:59 PM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/20/12 9:23 PM

A picture would help.

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/20/12 9:27 PM

Try sewing your darts from the point first.

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AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/20/12 11:54 PM

Change the big dart into two smaller darts.

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Ada

Nancywin
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Nancywin  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/12 1:46 AM

I also wear a DDD and have a difficult time with darts. It sounds like you're on the right track. You may have to rotate the dart to a french dart, coming up from near the waist at the side seam to up under the bust. A picture would help if you can manage it. I have much better luck with princess seams. Also, sometimes adding a little curve to the dart helps.

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Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight (Proverbs 3:5-6)

petro
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Date: 7/21/12 2:04 AM

Too much fabric where the dart ends sounds like the garment is too big round the bust? But maybe you meant its the wrong shape?
One of my dds has always needed the bust darts to be shaped carefully, so that the form around the rib cage is followed. (This is the famous boat shaped dart.) Either splitting the dart fullness into more than one dart, as already mentioned, or cutting the dart part way through on the WS, so it can be pressed open for part of its length sometimes helps.

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Sharon Rose
Sharon Rose  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/12 6:27 AM

Petro, what is a boat shaped dart? Have never heard of this.

SheBear0320
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In reply to drsmock <<
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Date: 7/21/12 10:11 AM

A picture would definitely help with the diagnosis. Difficult to give an accurate assessment without one.

My guess (since I have to do this and I'm a G) -- the point of the dart needs to be further from the bust apex. It is not uncommon for those with large cup sizes to have to move the ends of the dart to as much as 3" from the bust apex.

I'm still trying to sort out all this FBA and bust dart stuff myself but this is what I have found worked the best for me.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
106.625 yards sewn (as of 12/19/14)
145.125 yards purchased (as of 12/19/14)

petro
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In reply to Sharon Rose <<


Date: 7/21/12 1:58 PM

Well, its just a dart which you stitch in the shape of the prow of a boat, scooping out a bit more fabric. This can help a lot if you get a lot of fabric bagging between the waist and the bust point.

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http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/21/12 7:59 PM

1.5" sounds too close to the apex. But it is very hard to fit a dart with larger than a 2" take up. You can make a princess seam by rotating the bust dart to the shoulder and combining it with the waist dart. These are easier to fit and sew than an armhole princess which tends to be too curvy to sew easily. The other choice is to rotate out part of the bust dart into a second waist dart.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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