SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Bust dart fitting problem ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Bust dart fitting problem
drsmock
drsmock
Intermediate
CT USA
Member since 4/22/03
Posts: 16
Send Message

      



Date: 7/20/12 6:36 PM

I'm making a close fitting top for my daughter, but in her muslin, I can't get the side and from the waist bust darts to end properly! Help! She is a triple D cup bra size. It looks like there is too much fabric at her apex, and the dart ends closest to her apex are hanging out in the breeze. I've tried taking in the front side seam in the bust area 1/4", and shortening the darts to end 1.5" from her apex, but neither helped. Please tell me how to get a smooth fit.
Thank you, drsmock

EDIT:
Here are photos of the area with which I need help achieving a smooth fit.

Side of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/10
You can see all 3 of the photos by going to this link.

3/4 view of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9

Top of the bust
http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9#11

As you can see, there is puckering/extra fabric at the apex and the darts are sticking out. What are your recommendations for fixing this?
-- Edited on 7/22/12 1:40 PM --
-- Edited on 7/22/12 1:59 PM --

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8219
Send Message

      



In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/20/12 9:23 PM

A picture would help.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/20/12 9:27 PM

Try sewing your darts from the point first.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2483
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 7/20/12 11:54 PM

Change the big dart into two smaller darts.

------
Ada

Nancywin
starstarstarstar
Nancywin  Friend of PR
CA USA
Member since 7/25/06
Posts: 932
Send Message

      



Date: 7/21/12 1:46 AM

I also wear a DDD and have a difficult time with darts. It sounds like you're on the right track. You may have to rotate the dart to a french dart, coming up from near the waist at the side seam to up under the bust. A picture would help if you can manage it. I have much better luck with princess seams. Also, sometimes adding a little curve to the dart helps.

------
blog: encue.blogspot.com

Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight (Proverbs 3:5-6)

petro
starstarstar
petro  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 6/24/07
Posts: 2493
Send Message

      



Date: 7/21/12 2:04 AM

Too much fabric where the dart ends sounds like the garment is too big round the bust? But maybe you meant its the wrong shape?
One of my dds has always needed the bust darts to be shaped carefully, so that the form around the rib cage is followed. (This is the famous boat shaped dart.) Either splitting the dart fullness into more than one dart, as already mentioned, or cutting the dart part way through on the WS, so it can be pressed open for part of its length sometimes helps.

Sharon Rose
Sharon Rose  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IN USA
Member since 3/10/11
Posts: 162
Send Message

      



Date: 7/21/12 6:27 AM

Petro, what is a boat shaped dart? Have never heard of this.

SheBear0320
star
SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Advanced
MB
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 3868
Send Message

      



In reply to drsmock <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 7/21/12 10:11 AM

A picture would definitely help with the diagnosis. Difficult to give an accurate assessment without one.

My guess (since I have to do this and I'm a G) -- the point of the dart needs to be further from the bust apex. It is not uncommon for those with large cup sizes to have to move the ends of the dart to as much as 3" from the bust apex.

I'm still trying to sort out all this FBA and bust dart stuff myself but this is what I have found worked the best for me.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
56.0 yards sewn (as of 07/31/14)
79.875 yards purchased (as of 07/31/14)

petro
starstarstar
petro  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 6/24/07
Posts: 2493
Send Message

      



In reply to Sharon Rose <<


Date: 7/21/12 1:58 PM

Well, its just a dart which you stitch in the shape of the prow of a boat, scooping out a bit more fabric. This can help a lot if you get a lot of fabric bagging between the waist and the bust point.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8219
Send Message

      



In reply to drsmock <<


Date: 7/21/12 7:59 PM

1.5" sounds too close to the apex. But it is very hard to fit a dart with larger than a 2" take up. You can make a princess seam by rotating the bust dart to the shoulder and combining it with the waist dart. These are easier to fit and sew than an armhole princess which tends to be too curvy to sew easily. The other choice is to rotate out part of the bust dart into a second waist dart.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Bust dart fitting problem

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Register

Altering Jackets
Altering Jackets

Register

McCall's M6167

photo
by: harmony758

Review
Victoria Jones Collection Misses' Traditional Muumuu

Victoria Jones Collection Misses' Traditional Muumuu

Buy Now
J Stern Designs Ribbon Skirt Pattern

J Stern Designs Ribbon Skirt Pattern

Buy Now
New Look 6567

photo
by: maryjanema...

Review

Pattern

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.