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Bust dart fitting problem
drsmock   Intermediate CT USA Member since 4/22/03 Posts: 16	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/20/12 6:36 PM I'm making a close fitting top for my daughter, but in her muslin, I can't get the side and from the waist bust darts to end properly! Help! She is a triple D cup bra size. It looks like there is too much fabric at her apex, and the dart ends closest to her apex are hanging out in the breeze. I've tried taking in the front side seam in the bust area 1/4", and shortening the darts to end 1.5" from her apex, but neither helped. Please tell me how to get a smooth fit. Thank you, drsmock EDIT: Here are photos of the area with which I need help achieving a smooth fit. Side of the bust http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/10 You can see all 3 of the photos by going to this link. 3/4 view of the bust http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9 Top of the bust http://muslimbustdartfitting.shutterfly.com/pictures/9#11 As you can see, there is puckering/extra fabric at the apex and the darts are sticking out. What are your recommendations for fixing this? -- Edited on 7/22/12 1:40 PM -- -- Edited on 7/22/12 1:59 PM --
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7578	Login to reply to this post In reply to drsmock << Like this post Date: 7/20/12 9:23 PM A picture would help. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6980	Login to reply to this post In reply to drsmock << Like this post Date: 7/20/12 9:27 PM Try sewing your darts from the point first. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
AdaH   Intermediate IA USA Member since 11/21/09 Posts: 2129	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 7/20/12 11:54 PM Change the big dart into two smaller darts. ------ Ada
Nancywin   CA USA Member since 7/25/06 Posts: 921	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/21/12 1:46 AM I also wear a DDD and have a difficult time with darts. It sounds like you're on the right track. You may have to rotate the dart to a french dart, coming up from near the waist at the side seam to up under the bust. A picture would help if you can manage it. I have much better luck with princess seams. Also, sometimes adding a little curve to the dart helps. ------ blog: encue.blogspot.com Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight (Proverbs 3:5-6)
petro   Intermediate FRANCE Member since 6/24/07 Posts: 2202	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/21/12 2:04 AM Too much fabric where the dart ends sounds like the garment is too big round the bust? But maybe you meant its the wrong shape? One of my dds has always needed the bust darts to be shaped carefully, so that the form around the rib cage is followed. (This is the famous boat shaped dart.) Either splitting the dart fullness into more than one dart, as already mentioned, or cutting the dart part way through on the WS, so it can be pressed open for part of its length sometimes helps. ------ so many patterns, clamouring to be sewn http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/
Sharon Rose   Advanced IN USA Member since 3/10/11 Posts: 98	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 7/21/12 6:27 AM Petro, what is a boat shaped dart? Have never heard of this.
SheBear0320   Advanced MB CANADA Member since 4/8/08 Posts: 2789	Login to reply to this post In reply to drsmock << 2 members like this. Date: 7/21/12 10:11 AM A picture would definitely help with the diagnosis. Difficult to give an accurate assessment without one. My guess (since I have to do this and I'm a G) -- the point of the dart needs to be further from the bust apex. It is not uncommon for those with large cup sizes to have to move the ends of the dart to as much as 3" from the bust apex. I'm still trying to sort out all this FBA and bust dart stuff myself but this is what I have found worked the best for me. ------ Sheila "sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet" 2012/2013 Stash Busting Sew-Along: 27.25 yards sewn (as of 05/15/13) 21.75 yards purchased (as of 05/15/13)
petro   Intermediate FRANCE Member since 6/24/07 Posts: 2202	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sharon Rose << Like this post Date: 7/21/12 1:58 PM Well, its just a dart which you stitch in the shape of the prow of a boat, scooping out a bit more fabric. This can help a lot if you get a lot of fabric bagging between the waist and the bust point. ------ so many patterns, clamouring to be sewn http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7578	Login to reply to this post In reply to drsmock << Like this post Date: 7/21/12 7:59 PM 1.5" sounds too close to the apex. But it is very hard to fit a dart with larger than a 2" take up. You can make a princess seam by rotating the bust dart to the shoulder and combining it with the waist dart. These are easier to fit and sew than an armhole princess which tends to be too curvy to sew easily. The other choice is to rotate out part of the bust dart into a second waist dart. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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