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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Taming a bias facing ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Taming a bias facing
Any hints that work for you?
dawn

dawn
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Date: 7/22/12 10:16 PM

I'm working on a sleeveless top with a bias facing on the neck and armholes. I've struggled with this in the past when I get to the "fold it to the inside and topstitch" part. It seems like there's always a section or two that doesn't get caught by my topstitching no matter how closely I pin. This time, I decided to thread baste from the underside and then topstitch right next to the stitching line. But it seems like there should be an easier way to do this, right??

Dawn

beauturbo
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In reply to dawn <<


Date: 7/22/12 10:43 PM

I think most people would sew it down from the underside/wrong side up view of it, in the first place, as then you got your eyes on the edge of the bias strip or facing, and can use that as your sewing guide, and see what you are doing a lot better. And less likely to miss any spots. Also if you miss a spot, you don't really always even need to unpick and take it out, and redo at all, as stitching on the outside is probably fine, you could just take a hand needle and thread and catch it down on the inside, to fix any little missed spots most likely.

But, hand basting something works good too. So that would always work, no matter if you did some top stitching of it down from the right or wrong side of the garment.

I don't like lots of pins in tight spaces sometimes, so sometimes it is just much quicker for me to even hand baste something down where I want it, to hold it there, rather than even use any pins. And just pull out basting later.

If you want it to turn a bit better, Maybe grade it down, in the seam allowances there and notch it out in a few places, on the curves, then press wide open, understitch the whole thing, in the round, on the hidden bias part, then flip it down, re- press it that way, and then pin or baste and only then sew any top stitching part for real, and from the back/wrong side of it, if you need to , to see it better. That is actually what I would probably do. Takes longer, but works better, and looks better in the end.

petro
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Date: 7/23/12 2:38 AM

If you want your top stitching nice and even, or to stitch in the ditch, I don't know of a quick sure fire way with bias binding. It can be a help to make that piece that turns to the wrong side a bit wider than the part on the RS so you have a better chance of catching it in. Another way is faking the binding. Fold it in half, stitch round, through all layers, press the turnings to the inside and top stitch through the turnings, after snipping and grading. The inside isn't as satisfactory, but if the armhole fit is close, you get the right effect from the RS.
Hand hemming your binding to the first row of stitching is another way, labour intensive, but sure.

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